I just noticed it’s been almost a month since I contributed to the blog. My, how time flies when you aren’t thinking about it. We have been busy with guests; after Susan and Joe, Peter and Debbie visited and then Riley over spring break. We enjoyed all; each brought their interests, ideas and perceptions which was interesting. Sydney and I have got to know ours pretty well by now.
Riley gets the Easiest To Have award, all he needed was sun, food and rest. He got all three and returned to Moscow Saturday with his batteries recharged, ready to tackle the last eight weeks of the semester. Turns out he is a pretty damn good diver, too. In the dozen dives he has in his career he’s already light years ahead of where I was at 50 dives. I do believe he is what may constitute a ‘natural’ when it comes to water, a more relaxed person I’ve not seen. Except maybe his mother. We had six terrific dives, during one Riley touched a sea turtle; a light caress of the shell and flipper to let Speedy know we came in peace. It was pretty neat to watch. Riley also gets his money’s worth as he drains every last drop of air out of his tank, to the point that he has to use air from the Dive Master during his safety stops. Now, that is economy!
We fed Riley sushi, most days let him sleep till he woke and then he camped out by the pool or beach for his allotment of sun. He got us up at 5:30am Saturday morning to go watch the sun rise at the SE end of the island. It was inspiring to be the first in Mexico to see it because there is a place, complete with a sign in Spanish and English that says this is the eastern most point in Mexico and if you watch the sun rise from this spot you are the first to see it. Unique is the best way to describe it.
Sydney and I begin our countdown until we leave on March 26. It’s going to be hard to leave a place that you’ve come to know so well, that has become home. I guess it means we just have to come back. It’s going to be different to return to a life where we have more responsibilities, albeit not related to 8 to 5 anymore. That’s what I’m looking forward to; our new routines at home with no work. Since we’ve not played that game yet, it will be fun to see what develops.
Yesterday, we spent the morning cleaning the condo because the little, bitty ants have been increasing. And I left a package of candy out which attracts them, well, like ants. (Guess I should’ve thought of that.) Anyhow, we cleaned top to bottom with Sydney even mopping the tile floors with her broom and a solution of vinegar and soap in between her bread baking. She has really become accomplished at this art, using a blend of whole wheat, regular flour and avena (oatmeal). We are thinking of starting a line called: Loaves by Sydney, when we get home. We resettled from our guests and are now ready for our last week. We plan on diving 3 more days, the last being a long dive day: morning, afternoon and evening. Three-a-day workouts, you know?
Yesterday afternoon we spent at the beach getting our sun allotments, along with our quotas of reading. I closed my eyes and listened to:
The sound of waves
The cry of seagulls out over the water, “Mine, mine, mine” they say
Dogs barking back amongst some buildings behind
A boat going by, the sound of the hull hitting waves, the drone of the engine
Mexican children playing baseball, Spanish in youthful voices
Mexicans in the ocean swimming, laughing
A jet flying high from Cancun
I spent time watching three Mexican men on the dock nearby searching for fish to spear. They made a spear out of a length of welding rod (?) and had fishing line attached. We talked to them later and they had one fish. I saw the one guy go 0 for 12 on his throws.
We also watched the sunset, which never fails to provide an aura of beauty. Looking west the land is flat and there are no obstructions to prevent the sun from literally sinking in the west. We have tried and tried to see the rumored blast of green light which follows the sun’s sinking; it’s a myth.
That evening, Sydney beat me again (18-11) in Cribbage as we waited for the chicken and rice to heat. She may be on her way to winning the 2008 Isla Mujares Cribbage Championship. But, it’s not over till the skinny Mexican sings, as they say. We are looking forward to attending the National Masters Cribbage Championship in Portland, Oregon in September.
Don’t know what we’ll do today, probably ride our bikes into town to post this entry at Adrian’s Internet Café, do some grocery shopping as Sydney has promised a batch of mango salsa for cocktail hour tonight. She also wants to buy some sunscreen that is made out of shark cartilage or some such potion. Aside from that, probably read Three Cups of Tea which is a very telling story of one man’s devotion to helping his fellow man. We’re definitely going to miss the reading when we go home; I hope we can somehow devote a couple of hours a day. Like we tell the kids; it’s all about choices.
Last, but not least, we want everyone to know that Hadley completed her Masters degree this past weekend! She has obtained it in Child and Family Development at Boise State and will go through commencement in May. Congratulations, Hadley, we are very proud of you for accepting the challenge of higher education. You have set the bar for all of us. Josh, you’re a great guy to be supportive of her the past couple of years.
So, if your family needs an overhaul, call Hadley, she’s your gal!
Thanks for reading; it’s been my pleasure to share. Adios, Esteben
Monday, March 17, 2008
Friday, March 7, 2008
Isla Files 3.6
Falling down on the blog.
Unfortunately I feel like I have abandoned my blog. So much has happened in the past several weeks. We have had company for most of the time and are getting ready for Riley’s visit today. It has been a truly inspiring 3 weeks.
We were fortunate enough to watch the full eclipse of the moon from our pool-side patio. It was a beautiful evening. Our friends Susan and Joe were here from Boise and we joined other friends to watch the shadow of the earth slip slowly over the moon. One of our friends had a very high tech telescope and we had our trusty binoculars but the moon was elegant to the naked eye. The Mayan people mapped the coming of the full moon through this century and beyond. Their calendar was more precise than ours and they made up the time more succinctly than having an extra day every 4 years. I am sure that events such as this eclipse were truly magical for the Mayan. It was so lovely to be able to recline in a lawn chair and just lay back and watch it happen as opposed to shivering from my front porch for a few minutes in the North.
We had good days of diving with Susan and Joe but also had a couple of severe days of wind. The bizarre weather across the Great Plains manifests itself as high winds that whip across the Gulf of Mexico and swirl around this island. When the winds are high, the port in Isla is closed to small boats. That is just as well as being out in choppy water isn’t a great deal of fun for me!
We have seen all kinds of sea creatures on our dives. Also, because of the currents associated with the wind, drift diving has been supreme. It is possible to drop down to about 50 feet, get set, and then just skim across the bottom with no effort at all. It reminds me of dreams of flying.
Susan and Joe left on Sunday, February 24 and Debbie and Peter arrived from Vermont on Monday, February 25. They have had a very hard winter with tons of snow and supreme cold. They have also had much going on in their lives: weddings, illnesses, and the birth of twins. They were in desperate need of a vacation and we had just the spot for them. They rented bikes and we proceeded to terrorize the island, checking out anything and everything that even looked remotely fascinating. One morning we even got up super early and road down to the South end (Punta Sur) to watch the sun come up. That is the Eastern most point in Mexico, so perhaps we were the first people to see the sun that day? The park at Punta Sur is guarded by the Armada. We had to request permission of a machine gun toting soldier to proceed to the point to see the sun. Very sobering! The soldier was friendly and didn’t hassle us at all.
Yesterday Steve and I were running around this end of the island on one of our usual routes. My hamstrings are bothering me a little so I was kind of poking along at the back of the pack. Steve smelled the barn and decided to pretend his last name was Prefontaine. He took off up the hill and as I watched him go, I noticed a large shape stretched out across the road. He ran by it within about a foot, so I was thinking it probably was a palm frond that had gotten hooked off of one of the trees by a large truck. As I got closer, I couldn’t help notice that it was moving. Imagine my surprise when I realized I was looking at a 12-15’ long boa constrictor!! It was just slithering across the road, minding its’ own business. It was pretty big around and probably had just had a rodent size snack. A local man on a scooter stopped and watched with me as it slithered off into the underbrush at the side of the road. We both yelled and whistled at Steve but he did not hear us. When I jogged up to the store and asked him if he had seen it, he was surprised. He had not!! Jose Luis tells us that he found one about that big on his patio last year. He hooked it with a stick and then put it outside the property. The snakes are not dangerous if you leave them alone and also if you are not a small rodent or lizard! I sure wish I had my camera!!
Unfortunately I feel like I have abandoned my blog. So much has happened in the past several weeks. We have had company for most of the time and are getting ready for Riley’s visit today. It has been a truly inspiring 3 weeks.
We were fortunate enough to watch the full eclipse of the moon from our pool-side patio. It was a beautiful evening. Our friends Susan and Joe were here from Boise and we joined other friends to watch the shadow of the earth slip slowly over the moon. One of our friends had a very high tech telescope and we had our trusty binoculars but the moon was elegant to the naked eye. The Mayan people mapped the coming of the full moon through this century and beyond. Their calendar was more precise than ours and they made up the time more succinctly than having an extra day every 4 years. I am sure that events such as this eclipse were truly magical for the Mayan. It was so lovely to be able to recline in a lawn chair and just lay back and watch it happen as opposed to shivering from my front porch for a few minutes in the North.
We had good days of diving with Susan and Joe but also had a couple of severe days of wind. The bizarre weather across the Great Plains manifests itself as high winds that whip across the Gulf of Mexico and swirl around this island. When the winds are high, the port in Isla is closed to small boats. That is just as well as being out in choppy water isn’t a great deal of fun for me!
We have seen all kinds of sea creatures on our dives. Also, because of the currents associated with the wind, drift diving has been supreme. It is possible to drop down to about 50 feet, get set, and then just skim across the bottom with no effort at all. It reminds me of dreams of flying.
Susan and Joe left on Sunday, February 24 and Debbie and Peter arrived from Vermont on Monday, February 25. They have had a very hard winter with tons of snow and supreme cold. They have also had much going on in their lives: weddings, illnesses, and the birth of twins. They were in desperate need of a vacation and we had just the spot for them. They rented bikes and we proceeded to terrorize the island, checking out anything and everything that even looked remotely fascinating. One morning we even got up super early and road down to the South end (Punta Sur) to watch the sun come up. That is the Eastern most point in Mexico, so perhaps we were the first people to see the sun that day? The park at Punta Sur is guarded by the Armada. We had to request permission of a machine gun toting soldier to proceed to the point to see the sun. Very sobering! The soldier was friendly and didn’t hassle us at all.
Yesterday Steve and I were running around this end of the island on one of our usual routes. My hamstrings are bothering me a little so I was kind of poking along at the back of the pack. Steve smelled the barn and decided to pretend his last name was Prefontaine. He took off up the hill and as I watched him go, I noticed a large shape stretched out across the road. He ran by it within about a foot, so I was thinking it probably was a palm frond that had gotten hooked off of one of the trees by a large truck. As I got closer, I couldn’t help notice that it was moving. Imagine my surprise when I realized I was looking at a 12-15’ long boa constrictor!! It was just slithering across the road, minding its’ own business. It was pretty big around and probably had just had a rodent size snack. A local man on a scooter stopped and watched with me as it slithered off into the underbrush at the side of the road. We both yelled and whistled at Steve but he did not hear us. When I jogged up to the store and asked him if he had seen it, he was surprised. He had not!! Jose Luis tells us that he found one about that big on his patio last year. He hooked it with a stick and then put it outside the property. The snakes are not dangerous if you leave them alone and also if you are not a small rodent or lizard! I sure wish I had my camera!!
Monday, March 3, 2008
Steve and Sydney Stardate: 2.25
Last Friday we couldn’t dive because the ocean had an upset stomach. Instead, we went with our friends, Susan and Joe, to Cancun, where we thought they would enjoy some malling. We walked it, end to end. The only member of the group who saw something she couldn’t live without was Sydney. She found a darling* top that ‘called out to me,‘ as she says. We had a nice lunch, Sydney and I split a salad, our first in many weeks. It was worth the wait. We’ve been warned to stay away from lettuce, although not sure why. It was great to taste dressing, again. We went and saw the movie Vantage Point in the Cineopolis. Don’t waste your money or time; it was substandard beginning to end. Dennis Quaid tried way too hard and Forrest Whitaker didn’t try hard enough. On the way back to the ferry we stopped at a tile, sink, etc., distributor and found some incredibly beautiful sinks for $90. These are glazed Mexican style, very vibrant colors. While this is a steal, the problemo is getting them (x2) shipped to Boise. I’m going to see what DHL and FedEx can do. Joe and Susan returned to Boise yesterday, we hope they enjoyed the week as much as us. Thanks you guys for the beautiful silver candlesticks which will look so nice in the condo at Elkhorn! The wine is still flowing! They came bearing 8 bottles! They are both wonderful divers and the cause of our addictions to the sport!Today, Sydney’s cousin, Debbie and her husband, Peter, arrive. They hail from deepest darkest Vermont and we know they can use a good dose of sand and sun. This will be good medicine for them.Winter has been tough on everyone this year; we’re holding out that when we come home in a month, it has moved on. We lament the need to wear pants, shoes, socks, coats upon our return. Down here I wear one garment: shorts. Blue, maroon, or green. Take your pick! Sydney wears two: top/bottom. I have encouraged her to go ala’ European, no doing. She does that when we play Tarzan & Jane on the beach at night. Oops, sorry, over sharing.We thought about getting out Dive Master Certifications while we were here, realizing we had ample time for the course. They recommend a minimum of two weeks, but prefer at least a month. It would cost $500 each, plus the materials ($150) and a re-up on our CPR qualifications ($100). We decided to forego it this trip and shoot for next time. Speaking for me, the thought of studying every evening somehow just doesn’t have much appeal. At 1:00pm everyday my brain goes on break until the next day!Week before last, Sydney and I heard the most wonderful music while having a late breakfast in town. A little investigation, i.e., pawing through the CD cases next to the stereo, revealed it was Fernando Lima, Pasion’ Album. We had not heard of him, or the woman who does most of the vocals. This is an incredible arrangement if you want some nice bold Spanish music for a quiet evening. Of course, it’s all I listen to now. I bought it from Itunes, downloaded to my laptop. Technology is great! Saturday we had two very relaxing dives on the reef. I spent the dives helping a condo acquaintance, Jerry, with his dives, as he last dove years ago. He did fine; the reef was perfect for him to meet Mr. Ocean, again. Sydney saw a nurse shark, but was too far away to garner attention. Of course, we all thought, “Sure, Sydney, sure!” about her shark. But, we all said, “Wow,” “Really,” “Cool,” to legitimatize her find. Diving, hunting, fishing, it’s all the same: 50% real, 50% imagined! Anyhow, they were nice dives. Sydney and I did find a large grouper hiding in a coral cave; he had to go 100 lbs! He had the protruding lower jaw that made him look like a grandpa. Nobody messes with him! I think groupers might be my favorite fish, well, maybe moray eels, too! While on that dive I thought of a word that best describes the ocean; “teeming.” The ocean is teeming with life. God, I hope we don’t ruin that, too.‘Nough said, looks like another good day, how can’t it be? Think we’ll go down to the ferry dock and watch Americans come off all stressed and angry! Thanks for reading; I enjoy talking with all of you. Until next time, Nannu-Nannu! Adios, Esteben.*Notice my use of adjectives? Totally learned from weeks of female influence
Friday, February 15, 2008
Isla Files 2.15
El comejen (the terminte).
Evidence of Senor Comejen is everywhere on Isla. Little gray trails snake away from anything wooden in our apartment. Look into the brush and woods beside the road and you can see their houses. Large black blobs in the crotch of a tree, a brush pile, along the remnants of a fence. The biggest terminte nest I have seen so far is in the woods across from the hospital. It is as large as a Volkswagon. How many termintes do you think live there? It must be millions, perhaps billions.
We showed Adrian pictures of our house in Boise. He was amazed that it is built out of wood. A house like ours would be a palace here but would not last long. Senor Comejen would bring his wrecking crew, like Marsellas in Pulp Fiction. They would use their jaws instead of chain saws or crowbars and pretty soon our house would be their house, a black ball stuck in the crotch of a tree.
Evidence of Senor Comejen is everywhere on Isla. Little gray trails snake away from anything wooden in our apartment. Look into the brush and woods beside the road and you can see their houses. Large black blobs in the crotch of a tree, a brush pile, along the remnants of a fence. The biggest terminte nest I have seen so far is in the woods across from the hospital. It is as large as a Volkswagon. How many termintes do you think live there? It must be millions, perhaps billions.
We showed Adrian pictures of our house in Boise. He was amazed that it is built out of wood. A house like ours would be a palace here but would not last long. Senor Comejen would bring his wrecking crew, like Marsellas in Pulp Fiction. They would use their jaws instead of chain saws or crowbars and pretty soon our house would be their house, a black ball stuck in the crotch of a tree.
Valentine's Day 2008
Sydney and Steve Stardate: Valentines Day
Valentines Day 2008, we were going to celebrate with a dive. Unfortunately, Arturo said it was no-go today, left word with Louis who told us just as we were headed out with our gear. It looks gorgeous out in the channel, perfect for diving. We don’t know what to make of Arturo, whether he knows it is going to get rough or just has other pressing matters. Oh well, as Scarlet O’Hara said in Gone With The Wind, “After all, tomorrow is another day.”
Sydney and I went for a sunset run last night around our usual route. It was nice seeing the island at that time, far less gringos blasting around in golf carts and scooters. Locals coming home from work, taking it easy. The smells were different, more pungent aromas. In the mornings the smells seem sweeter. We have not idea what we smell, there is something blooming all the time. Hibiscus is my favorites. The marigold seeds Sydney planted 3 weeks ago have shown no signs of life. We agree that next year, should be come for this long, we are bringing marigold and cilantro seeds. Everyone uses cilantro in their cooking but no one grows it, you have to buy it in the store. We have basil growing, about time for some pesto!
We are enjoying our reading, we often read up to four hours a day. It’s fantastic to have so much available time. After diving in the morning it is not uncommon after showering and some lunch, reading on our beds for a couple of hours w/ 30-45 minute siestas (I can’t call it a nap, I’m not four years old!), then to the beach for a couple of hours reading while we work on tans. That, my friends, is some great reading time!
Sydney and I have spent 24/7 together since we arrived January 9. Save for maybe 20 minutes here and there, we have been together. I thought about this before we came down, wondering if not having the away time that work offered might be too much. I am proud to say it has not. We have become closer than ever, able to anticipate behaviors and speech. Kind of scary sometimes when we both have the same thought, like ESPN we joke. Being together has been a fortunate experience; we agree that it is a great way to start a retirement. I thought the honeymoon might wear off, not the case. We’re thick as lobsters in a cave!
I received news from USADA yesterday that I was one of the Doping Control Officers who volunteered and was accepted by the Canadian Olympic Committee to assist with the Winter Olympics in Vancouver, 2010. Pretty cool, being a part of something so historical. There will be training and pre-event experience in Canada, it should be one of those ‘once in a lifetime’ opportunities. I am proud of my selection and hope to segway Sydney into a role. We both are anxious to get back into testing, now that we don’t have day jobs to schedule around.
We are looking forward to our friends Susan and Joe Murray arriving on Saturday. We will dive our brains out with them next week, everyday! We hope to go down to a cenote’ at Akumal and dive on Friday or Saturday. This is fresh water in limestone caves that honeycomb this country. Periodically, the ceiling falls in which creates access, most were found by the Mayans centuries ago. Susan and Joe haven’t dove a cenote’ and we want to help them get it in their logs. We may go spend the night in another small town inland. We’ll see!
We hope all of you had a memorable Valentines Day. We thought of all of you, hoping that spring is knocking on the door and ‘Ol Man Winter is headed down the stairs. Adios, mia amigos! Esteben
Valentines Day 2008, we were going to celebrate with a dive. Unfortunately, Arturo said it was no-go today, left word with Louis who told us just as we were headed out with our gear. It looks gorgeous out in the channel, perfect for diving. We don’t know what to make of Arturo, whether he knows it is going to get rough or just has other pressing matters. Oh well, as Scarlet O’Hara said in Gone With The Wind, “After all, tomorrow is another day.”
Sydney and I went for a sunset run last night around our usual route. It was nice seeing the island at that time, far less gringos blasting around in golf carts and scooters. Locals coming home from work, taking it easy. The smells were different, more pungent aromas. In the mornings the smells seem sweeter. We have not idea what we smell, there is something blooming all the time. Hibiscus is my favorites. The marigold seeds Sydney planted 3 weeks ago have shown no signs of life. We agree that next year, should be come for this long, we are bringing marigold and cilantro seeds. Everyone uses cilantro in their cooking but no one grows it, you have to buy it in the store. We have basil growing, about time for some pesto!
We are enjoying our reading, we often read up to four hours a day. It’s fantastic to have so much available time. After diving in the morning it is not uncommon after showering and some lunch, reading on our beds for a couple of hours w/ 30-45 minute siestas (I can’t call it a nap, I’m not four years old!), then to the beach for a couple of hours reading while we work on tans. That, my friends, is some great reading time!
Sydney and I have spent 24/7 together since we arrived January 9. Save for maybe 20 minutes here and there, we have been together. I thought about this before we came down, wondering if not having the away time that work offered might be too much. I am proud to say it has not. We have become closer than ever, able to anticipate behaviors and speech. Kind of scary sometimes when we both have the same thought, like ESPN we joke. Being together has been a fortunate experience; we agree that it is a great way to start a retirement. I thought the honeymoon might wear off, not the case. We’re thick as lobsters in a cave!
I received news from USADA yesterday that I was one of the Doping Control Officers who volunteered and was accepted by the Canadian Olympic Committee to assist with the Winter Olympics in Vancouver, 2010. Pretty cool, being a part of something so historical. There will be training and pre-event experience in Canada, it should be one of those ‘once in a lifetime’ opportunities. I am proud of my selection and hope to segway Sydney into a role. We both are anxious to get back into testing, now that we don’t have day jobs to schedule around.
We are looking forward to our friends Susan and Joe Murray arriving on Saturday. We will dive our brains out with them next week, everyday! We hope to go down to a cenote’ at Akumal and dive on Friday or Saturday. This is fresh water in limestone caves that honeycomb this country. Periodically, the ceiling falls in which creates access, most were found by the Mayans centuries ago. Susan and Joe haven’t dove a cenote’ and we want to help them get it in their logs. We may go spend the night in another small town inland. We’ll see!
We hope all of you had a memorable Valentines Day. We thought of all of you, hoping that spring is knocking on the door and ‘Ol Man Winter is headed down the stairs. Adios, mia amigos! Esteben
Monday, February 11, 2008
Isla Files 2.11
La lengua d’esparanza (the tongue of hope).
The Mexican people are incredible in their ability to make lemonade out of life’s lemons. We watch the young boys sifting dirt and hauling loads of concrete at the construction site. They are wearing sandals, old blue jeans, many do not have shirts or caps. They smile shyly or sometimes are too shy to even meet our gaze. “Hola. Buenas dias.” we greet them. As the weeks go by and we see them in the bodega, some of them even offer the greeting before we speak. They come from Chiapas and other poor areas of the interior of Mexico. Most are Indians, many Mayan. Most speak Spanish as a second language and no English at all. They are recruited from the poor villages with promises of a better future. Many will never return to their villages. Some will work in places such as this for 9, 10, 11 months of the year. Even though they make almost nothing, they send over half of it back to their families in the mountains.
You can see the hope in their soft brown eyes, the squareness of their shoulders, the gleaming whiteness of their shirts as they walk in to town on Saturday night. What is the dream? To return home and marry? To see their children, their sweethearts, their mothers? You can see the tongue of hope caress their souls as they cross the square in front of the church. They trace the sign of the cross on their chests with their thumbs, kiss the thumb, and press it to their hearts. Life will get better, just one more day, one more bucket of sand, one more gringo hotel.
The Mexican people are incredible in their ability to make lemonade out of life’s lemons. We watch the young boys sifting dirt and hauling loads of concrete at the construction site. They are wearing sandals, old blue jeans, many do not have shirts or caps. They smile shyly or sometimes are too shy to even meet our gaze. “Hola. Buenas dias.” we greet them. As the weeks go by and we see them in the bodega, some of them even offer the greeting before we speak. They come from Chiapas and other poor areas of the interior of Mexico. Most are Indians, many Mayan. Most speak Spanish as a second language and no English at all. They are recruited from the poor villages with promises of a better future. Many will never return to their villages. Some will work in places such as this for 9, 10, 11 months of the year. Even though they make almost nothing, they send over half of it back to their families in the mountains.
You can see the hope in their soft brown eyes, the squareness of their shoulders, the gleaming whiteness of their shirts as they walk in to town on Saturday night. What is the dream? To return home and marry? To see their children, their sweethearts, their mothers? You can see the tongue of hope caress their souls as they cross the square in front of the church. They trace the sign of the cross on their chests with their thumbs, kiss the thumb, and press it to their hearts. Life will get better, just one more day, one more bucket of sand, one more gringo hotel.
Stardate: 2.10
Today is Sunday, a day of rest. Domingo, in Spanish. Last night, Saturday, Sydney and I sat on our patio watching the traffic on the road in front of the condo. We are elevated about 20’ up and set back about 25’ so we get almost a voyeuristic opportunity. We can watch the traffic; the traffic doesn’t watch us. It was a beautiful evening, probably 77degrees, a soft breeze. Down the beach we could hear the distant sound of music. Pretty romantic, actually!
There is a lot of foot traffic on the road, mainly Mexican workers going back and forth to the large hotel building project about half mile from us. We have inquired about these workers and learned that most of them are young Mexican men (boys?) from Chiapas, a poor agricultural state in the interior of Mexico, the majority are Mayan Indians and speak their own language. They are considered to be the low of the low in this culture. These guys come here for the work, which is all manual labor. Some of the workers are skilled, like in brick laying or applying stucco, most are just strong backs. Since we arrived we have watched them walking back and forth, early in the morning and after dark, groups of two, three or four.
Some of them, (and I estimate the job probably has upwards of 250 men working), live across from the worksite where the company has fashioned a camp. The workers can live there for free, which I’m sure is a hammock in a shack, sans A/C. The company feeds them, for a price of course. Many of them look about 14 or 15 years of age, really kids that should be in high school. This was confirmed by Jose Luis, our condo manager who also runs the little store where these guys come to buy beer, chips, sweets. We went down to the store last night to get some juice and noticed all the beer had been sold. Jose Luis described that the workers bought it all (6:00pm) and that they work all week and “have to put much party in a little bit of time.” Jose Luis has quite a bit of empathy for them.
Do you know what these guys are paid? Get this, about $5 ($50 Pesos) a day! Yep, a day, not an hour! And that is for the skilled help, the ones that know something! The strong backs get less. Then, if they eat the company food that is deducted from their wages! And most of them are still sending money home to their families. They are paid in cash every Saturday afternoon and last night there were quite a few of them walking by. Most of them had cleaned up, putting on their best Saturday night clothes, some of which looked like what Sydney and I wear to do yard work. They walked down to the little store, bought some beer and munchies, sat out front talking and then walked back to the project. Some of them continued into town, another 2 mile walk.
This is the life these people have to look forward to. No wonder there are revolutions and uprisings in the world. People get tired of being oppressed, of literally killing themselves and getting nowhere. This has been a real education for me, a first hand look at what it means to be the low man on the totem pole. We have all been fortunate enough to have the opportunities to better ourselves. These folks have little, if any. Nada.
So, why do they do it? What do they work for? I saw the answer last week during one of our trips into town. A young mother was holding her baby, sitting on a bench in the municipal square. Her baby girl was sleeping. I asked her if I could take a picture of she and her baby, she nodded a polite yes. It says what I can’t. Adios, mia amigos! Think Spring! Esteben
There is a lot of foot traffic on the road, mainly Mexican workers going back and forth to the large hotel building project about half mile from us. We have inquired about these workers and learned that most of them are young Mexican men (boys?) from Chiapas, a poor agricultural state in the interior of Mexico, the majority are Mayan Indians and speak their own language. They are considered to be the low of the low in this culture. These guys come here for the work, which is all manual labor. Some of the workers are skilled, like in brick laying or applying stucco, most are just strong backs. Since we arrived we have watched them walking back and forth, early in the morning and after dark, groups of two, three or four.
Some of them, (and I estimate the job probably has upwards of 250 men working), live across from the worksite where the company has fashioned a camp. The workers can live there for free, which I’m sure is a hammock in a shack, sans A/C. The company feeds them, for a price of course. Many of them look about 14 or 15 years of age, really kids that should be in high school. This was confirmed by Jose Luis, our condo manager who also runs the little store where these guys come to buy beer, chips, sweets. We went down to the store last night to get some juice and noticed all the beer had been sold. Jose Luis described that the workers bought it all (6:00pm) and that they work all week and “have to put much party in a little bit of time.” Jose Luis has quite a bit of empathy for them.
Do you know what these guys are paid? Get this, about $5 ($50 Pesos) a day! Yep, a day, not an hour! And that is for the skilled help, the ones that know something! The strong backs get less. Then, if they eat the company food that is deducted from their wages! And most of them are still sending money home to their families. They are paid in cash every Saturday afternoon and last night there were quite a few of them walking by. Most of them had cleaned up, putting on their best Saturday night clothes, some of which looked like what Sydney and I wear to do yard work. They walked down to the little store, bought some beer and munchies, sat out front talking and then walked back to the project. Some of them continued into town, another 2 mile walk.
This is the life these people have to look forward to. No wonder there are revolutions and uprisings in the world. People get tired of being oppressed, of literally killing themselves and getting nowhere. This has been a real education for me, a first hand look at what it means to be the low man on the totem pole. We have all been fortunate enough to have the opportunities to better ourselves. These folks have little, if any. Nada.
So, why do they do it? What do they work for? I saw the answer last week during one of our trips into town. A young mother was holding her baby, sitting on a bench in the municipal square. Her baby girl was sleeping. I asked her if I could take a picture of she and her baby, she nodded a polite yes. It says what I can’t. Adios, mia amigos! Think Spring! Esteben
Wednesday, February 6, 2008
Isla Files 2.5
Iguanas or gekkos. Which do I find the most fascinating? I must admit that even within these reptiles I have my favorites. But how to choose a species? Allow me to introduce you to the contestants.
Kitchen Gekko. This small gekko lives behind the refrigerator and stealthily roams the kitchen looking for mosquitoes, tiny flies, and even tinier ants. She barks at us if we stay up too late of if we don’t remember to turn the lights off. I imagine that she is a mother. Who else would care how late we stay up?
Garden Gekko. A guy surely, this gekko hangs in the basil outside and stealthily goes about his business. He can hang motionless on the most slender stalk of aloe vera if he thinks we have spotted him. Is he shy or just looking for an opening in the screen so that he can come in and visit the Kitchen?
The Evel Gekkivo, the daring gekko of Builiding B. He continually defies the odds by leaping from the second story window box with grackles in hot pursuit. He spreads his gekko body in free-fall. You can almost hear him scream “Look, ma! No hands!”
Guan Jose, truly the father of the tribe. While bigger iguanas live on other parts of the island, Guan has his turf clearly marked. He lives under the bodega and comes out to chat with Jose Luis and Nellie if they want for company in the store. His toe nails are massive but he has lost part of his tail in some long ago battle.
Junior, a smaller less regal image of his father. He lives in a crack in the wall by the bodega and is constantly wary. They don’t call iguanas “Mexican chickens” for nothing. The passing workers look at him hungrily.
Donna Guana, a silly goose of an iguana. She lives under the sidewalk near our building. She hides under the step if she thinks you have spotted her. Sometimes her tails is still sticking in the air, in plain view. Doesn’t she feel the draft?
Guard Guan, the keeper who lives by the gate. She keeps tabs on the comings and goings of the compound and is quick to relay the choicest bit of new gossip. "Did you see what that woman in 1-A was wearing today? I’d make more of an effort if I were her. Have you seen her cute husband?”
Elvis, the big guy in the storm drain up the road. He surely has been having late night snacks of fried peanut butter and banana sandwiches. His suit is stretched tight. His pompador full and flowing. He just needs a microphone and some rings. You can hear him singing “Don’t be cruel” late at night.
Kitchen Gekko. This small gekko lives behind the refrigerator and stealthily roams the kitchen looking for mosquitoes, tiny flies, and even tinier ants. She barks at us if we stay up too late of if we don’t remember to turn the lights off. I imagine that she is a mother. Who else would care how late we stay up?
Garden Gekko. A guy surely, this gekko hangs in the basil outside and stealthily goes about his business. He can hang motionless on the most slender stalk of aloe vera if he thinks we have spotted him. Is he shy or just looking for an opening in the screen so that he can come in and visit the Kitchen?
The Evel Gekkivo, the daring gekko of Builiding B. He continually defies the odds by leaping from the second story window box with grackles in hot pursuit. He spreads his gekko body in free-fall. You can almost hear him scream “Look, ma! No hands!”
Guan Jose, truly the father of the tribe. While bigger iguanas live on other parts of the island, Guan has his turf clearly marked. He lives under the bodega and comes out to chat with Jose Luis and Nellie if they want for company in the store. His toe nails are massive but he has lost part of his tail in some long ago battle.
Junior, a smaller less regal image of his father. He lives in a crack in the wall by the bodega and is constantly wary. They don’t call iguanas “Mexican chickens” for nothing. The passing workers look at him hungrily.
Donna Guana, a silly goose of an iguana. She lives under the sidewalk near our building. She hides under the step if she thinks you have spotted her. Sometimes her tails is still sticking in the air, in plain view. Doesn’t she feel the draft?
Guard Guan, the keeper who lives by the gate. She keeps tabs on the comings and goings of the compound and is quick to relay the choicest bit of new gossip. "Did you see what that woman in 1-A was wearing today? I’d make more of an effort if I were her. Have you seen her cute husband?”
Elvis, the big guy in the storm drain up the road. He surely has been having late night snacks of fried peanut butter and banana sandwiches. His suit is stretched tight. His pompador full and flowing. He just needs a microphone and some rings. You can hear him singing “Don’t be cruel” late at night.
Monday, February 4, 2008
Steve and Sydney Stardate: Super Bowl Sunday
Today is the big day, surprising how this event is such an opportunity for the tourist industry on the island. I’m sure it is that way all over the world, hell, everybody likes a party! We’re going to have a Super Bowl party at our place; I have my Cheetos and coca cola! We will watch the game in Spanish which I find more interesting than English. The new ads should prove entertaining!
I am attaching a photo of some new construction. (Sorry. The photo did not transfer.) I believe it represents quite a bit of this culture. The first thing you notice is a lack of equipment. No backhoes, concrete pampers, mixers, or scissor-lifts. Nope, nothing but strong backs. Instead of throwing technology at a project they use manpower. Happens to be their most abundant resource. The second thing that caught my eye was their use of existing resources: note the Goodyear tire in the wall. Now, that is some kind of window casing! Leave it to them to figure out how to fit a window pane, which will likely open and close! The use of available stone is also evident, not much is imported on this build. Last, how about the lack of wood! Everything is concrete, cinderblock and stone. Scaffolding is about the only wood used so far, and that will be dismantled and taken to the next job. No siree, this climate eats wood for desayuno. The only thing that lasts is concrete. Guess when you live in a hurricane climate double wide trailers aren’t the call! At first the grey of the project left me cold, like it represented despair or poverty. I don’t think that’s the case as you note the sweep of the staircase, the turrets and windows. It will be interesting to watch the progress, they will stucco the whole thing and then paint it some lively colors. I’ll post an update in about a month.
We learned yesterday that our furnace malfunctioned last week. Thanks to Senior Steve for responding after Diana (housekeeper) reported it to him. A new igniter did the trick. What a lousy time to have your heat source go out! Thanks again, Steve, we certainly appreciate your assistance. The only heating and cooling we have used are windows and ceiling fans. Too hot, open a window and crank the fan up a notch; too cold, reverse procedure.
Sydney just made a great batch of avena (oatmeal) for our desayuno. Topped with some Yucatan honey…wow! Arturo told us the hurricane earlier this year destroyed a lot of the crops that the bees need and that bee farmers have been importing sugar to augment the bees’ diets. Sounds plausible…Anyhow, this avena burns clean and we won’t have to eat all day! Speaking of which, we are both losing a layer or two of insulation and hope to be lean and mean upon our return! Adios, mia amigos, this is Capt. Kirk saying good-bye!
I am attaching a photo of some new construction. (Sorry. The photo did not transfer.) I believe it represents quite a bit of this culture. The first thing you notice is a lack of equipment. No backhoes, concrete pampers, mixers, or scissor-lifts. Nope, nothing but strong backs. Instead of throwing technology at a project they use manpower. Happens to be their most abundant resource. The second thing that caught my eye was their use of existing resources: note the Goodyear tire in the wall. Now, that is some kind of window casing! Leave it to them to figure out how to fit a window pane, which will likely open and close! The use of available stone is also evident, not much is imported on this build. Last, how about the lack of wood! Everything is concrete, cinderblock and stone. Scaffolding is about the only wood used so far, and that will be dismantled and taken to the next job. No siree, this climate eats wood for desayuno. The only thing that lasts is concrete. Guess when you live in a hurricane climate double wide trailers aren’t the call! At first the grey of the project left me cold, like it represented despair or poverty. I don’t think that’s the case as you note the sweep of the staircase, the turrets and windows. It will be interesting to watch the progress, they will stucco the whole thing and then paint it some lively colors. I’ll post an update in about a month.
We learned yesterday that our furnace malfunctioned last week. Thanks to Senior Steve for responding after Diana (housekeeper) reported it to him. A new igniter did the trick. What a lousy time to have your heat source go out! Thanks again, Steve, we certainly appreciate your assistance. The only heating and cooling we have used are windows and ceiling fans. Too hot, open a window and crank the fan up a notch; too cold, reverse procedure.
Sydney just made a great batch of avena (oatmeal) for our desayuno. Topped with some Yucatan honey…wow! Arturo told us the hurricane earlier this year destroyed a lot of the crops that the bees need and that bee farmers have been importing sugar to augment the bees’ diets. Sounds plausible…Anyhow, this avena burns clean and we won’t have to eat all day! Speaking of which, we are both losing a layer or two of insulation and hope to be lean and mean upon our return! Adios, mia amigos, this is Capt. Kirk saying good-bye!
Isla Files 2.4
Isla Files 2.4
Every morning we wake to the sounds of the island. It is so much better than waking to an alarm clock! There are 3 main song birds on this island:
The black bird (mirlo) that is really more like a grackle. It is pretty big, with a sharp beak and beady yellow eyes. It’s song is high-pitched and shrill and it is a voracious hunter. We watched one go after a gekko the other day. It chased the gekko under one of the idle air conditioning units and strutted back and forth, waiting for the gekko to make one false move. Just when you think the coast is clear….wham!
The “mocking” bird. This gray and white bird knows 9 different “songs of the island.” It is about the same size as a robin and does not seem to be as aggressive as the black bird. I think it is really some sort of a fly-catcher. It is fun to watch these birds sit on the wires outside our apartment. They jockey for position and are quite territorial. I cheer for them when they go after the little biting flies (chaquistas) that torment me when it rains.
The dove (paloma). These beautiful gray and white doves remind me of home. They coo softly in the morning and again just as it is getting dark.
We asked Arturo about humming birds (colibri) as we have not seen any evidence of them on the island. We haven’t even seen any humming bird feeders. Arturo says they are “Not so much on the island. Maybe one or two in April.” I guess Isla is not on their migratory path. I am surprised, too because there are so many beautiful flowers on the island. We do see lots of butterflies (mariposas) so we are confident that the pollen is taken care of!!
On an unrelated note: Alici Ricaldi won the election. I guess all those people with the Gilbert Avalos t-shirts didn’t vote for him after all. Election day is very serious here and I think that the majority of people vote. Armed guards patrol the outdoor polling stations.
Every morning we wake to the sounds of the island. It is so much better than waking to an alarm clock! There are 3 main song birds on this island:
The black bird (mirlo) that is really more like a grackle. It is pretty big, with a sharp beak and beady yellow eyes. It’s song is high-pitched and shrill and it is a voracious hunter. We watched one go after a gekko the other day. It chased the gekko under one of the idle air conditioning units and strutted back and forth, waiting for the gekko to make one false move. Just when you think the coast is clear….wham!
The “mocking” bird. This gray and white bird knows 9 different “songs of the island.” It is about the same size as a robin and does not seem to be as aggressive as the black bird. I think it is really some sort of a fly-catcher. It is fun to watch these birds sit on the wires outside our apartment. They jockey for position and are quite territorial. I cheer for them when they go after the little biting flies (chaquistas) that torment me when it rains.
The dove (paloma). These beautiful gray and white doves remind me of home. They coo softly in the morning and again just as it is getting dark.
We asked Arturo about humming birds (colibri) as we have not seen any evidence of them on the island. We haven’t even seen any humming bird feeders. Arturo says they are “Not so much on the island. Maybe one or two in April.” I guess Isla is not on their migratory path. I am surprised, too because there are so many beautiful flowers on the island. We do see lots of butterflies (mariposas) so we are confident that the pollen is taken care of!!
On an unrelated note: Alici Ricaldi won the election. I guess all those people with the Gilbert Avalos t-shirts didn’t vote for him after all. Election day is very serious here and I think that the majority of people vote. Armed guards patrol the outdoor polling stations.
Saturday, February 2, 2008
isla Files 2.2
Isla Files 2.2
Moon-lighting, Isla style: Second shift onion crew.
Isla, like nearly every other incredibly beautiful place in the world, is growing. There are currently 4 major construction jobs on the island, a very small base population, and many tourists. In some ways it reminds me of the Wood River Valley in Idaho. There is a lot of work but a limited population to supply the workers. “Help Wanted” signs are in many windows. What to do then if you need something done that you cannot do yourself?
Wednesday afternoon as we stood outside the bodega talking to Arturo about a dive, Jose Luis took off up the road chasing a passing bicyclist. After some heated discussion with the gentleman on the bike, Jose Luis rejoined our group. He apologized and said that was the brick man that he had been trying to get in touch with. He and Arturo then commiserated about how difficult it is to “get good help.”
Later that evening about 8 guys showed up, some with tile-setting tools. They proceeded to swarm the small bathroom in the apartment next to ours. Tap, tap, tap: 8 guys removing and replacing tile until late into the evening. They came back on Thursday and Friday nights to continue working. Most of these young men come from the state of Chiapas or the Yucatan. They are very small and quiet, shy. They don’t speak much Spanish but favor their native Indian dialects. Most of them probably have not gone to school. They look so young.
Last night we came home from town at around 9:00 PM. They were gathered on our steps, sharing a late night snack. They apologized for being in our way. “Esta bien. No hay problema.” we told them, feeling bad about disturbing their break. Keep in mind that these guys have already worked from 7:00 AM to 7:00 PM at one of the larger construction jobs. They wear flip-flops, Crocs, cheap sneakers. Blue jeans or shorts. T-shirts or none at all. We watch them in the bodega. They eat almost nothing and live in open-air camps near the construction projects. Where do they get the energy to work like this? How can they continue? Stepping through their gathering on the steps I feel big, clumsy, privileged.
Moon-lighting, Isla style: Second shift onion crew.
Isla, like nearly every other incredibly beautiful place in the world, is growing. There are currently 4 major construction jobs on the island, a very small base population, and many tourists. In some ways it reminds me of the Wood River Valley in Idaho. There is a lot of work but a limited population to supply the workers. “Help Wanted” signs are in many windows. What to do then if you need something done that you cannot do yourself?
Wednesday afternoon as we stood outside the bodega talking to Arturo about a dive, Jose Luis took off up the road chasing a passing bicyclist. After some heated discussion with the gentleman on the bike, Jose Luis rejoined our group. He apologized and said that was the brick man that he had been trying to get in touch with. He and Arturo then commiserated about how difficult it is to “get good help.”
Later that evening about 8 guys showed up, some with tile-setting tools. They proceeded to swarm the small bathroom in the apartment next to ours. Tap, tap, tap: 8 guys removing and replacing tile until late into the evening. They came back on Thursday and Friday nights to continue working. Most of these young men come from the state of Chiapas or the Yucatan. They are very small and quiet, shy. They don’t speak much Spanish but favor their native Indian dialects. Most of them probably have not gone to school. They look so young.
Last night we came home from town at around 9:00 PM. They were gathered on our steps, sharing a late night snack. They apologized for being in our way. “Esta bien. No hay problema.” we told them, feeling bad about disturbing their break. Keep in mind that these guys have already worked from 7:00 AM to 7:00 PM at one of the larger construction jobs. They wear flip-flops, Crocs, cheap sneakers. Blue jeans or shorts. T-shirts or none at all. We watch them in the bodega. They eat almost nothing and live in open-air camps near the construction projects. Where do they get the energy to work like this? How can they continue? Stepping through their gathering on the steps I feel big, clumsy, privileged.
Wednesday, January 30, 2008
Isla Files 1.29
Politics, Isla style. The election for the municipal offices is on Sunday, February 3 and the competitors are in full campaign mode. Because most people on the island neither have a TV or radio or get a newspaper, the conventional style of campaigning (as we know it in the US) doesn’t really work here. What’s a politician to do?
During the weeks leading up to the election the most common approach is to put speakers in a golf cart, taxi, or private car, slather that vehicle with political signs, and drive around the neighborhoods with the sound blaring your political message. The 2 main candidates on the island are Gilberto Avalos and Alicia Ricalde. Their efforts are everywhere. Every sign post, retaining wall, vehicle, and storefront bears witness to the occupants political preference. Forget your measly yard sign or bumper sticker!
Another good approach is to hand out t-shirts and hats. Everyone on the island is wearing a t-shirt with his or her favorite politician’s slogans proudly displayed. On a recent ride into town traffic was at a standstill in front of the Ricalde headquarters, campaigners lined both sides of the highway literally pushing clothing, pamphlets, and pens into the hands of motorists, cyclists, and walkers. Someone gave me a pen attached to a pamphlet and another person tried to give Steve a ball cap. Ever the federal employee, he declined to offer endorsement, you know that old Hatch Act! I kept the pen and gave the pamphlet back.
In the evening a movie of the Ricalde platform is broadcast on the side of her headquarters. It is kind of like a drive-in movie screen. I am not quite sure what separates the 2 candidates. Both of them talk about supporting tourism and working for the people. The only candidate that offers the slogan of “education is the solution” doesn’t appear to have the financial backing to launch a full-scale campaign. Isn’t that always the case? Also, no one seems to have a particularly emphasis on the environment.
I asked Enrique (our dive master last week) what he thought of the whole thing. He said “Everyone knows that candidate X is a liar.” Will that mean that he is not elected? Only time will tell.
During the weeks leading up to the election the most common approach is to put speakers in a golf cart, taxi, or private car, slather that vehicle with political signs, and drive around the neighborhoods with the sound blaring your political message. The 2 main candidates on the island are Gilberto Avalos and Alicia Ricalde. Their efforts are everywhere. Every sign post, retaining wall, vehicle, and storefront bears witness to the occupants political preference. Forget your measly yard sign or bumper sticker!
Another good approach is to hand out t-shirts and hats. Everyone on the island is wearing a t-shirt with his or her favorite politician’s slogans proudly displayed. On a recent ride into town traffic was at a standstill in front of the Ricalde headquarters, campaigners lined both sides of the highway literally pushing clothing, pamphlets, and pens into the hands of motorists, cyclists, and walkers. Someone gave me a pen attached to a pamphlet and another person tried to give Steve a ball cap. Ever the federal employee, he declined to offer endorsement, you know that old Hatch Act! I kept the pen and gave the pamphlet back.
In the evening a movie of the Ricalde platform is broadcast on the side of her headquarters. It is kind of like a drive-in movie screen. I am not quite sure what separates the 2 candidates. Both of them talk about supporting tourism and working for the people. The only candidate that offers the slogan of “education is the solution” doesn’t appear to have the financial backing to launch a full-scale campaign. Isn’t that always the case? Also, no one seems to have a particularly emphasis on the environment.
I asked Enrique (our dive master last week) what he thought of the whole thing. He said “Everyone knows that candidate X is a liar.” Will that mean that he is not elected? Only time will tell.
Isla files 1.28 (Steve)
Steve and Sydney Stardate 1.29I have been retired almost a month. It really doesn’t feel like retirement because I am in Mexico, living the dream, as opposed to home, living the life. Irregardless, it’s damn nice! Let me recall for you my day yesterday:Got up about 7:30am, had coffee in bed while I read for about 30 minutes. Listened to life outside: road noise, discussions in Spanish down at the little store, birds chirping, geckos barking periodically. Sydney and I went for our run, counterclockwise today. We run on Monday, Wednesday, Friday…our first long run last Saturday morning, 1 hr 10 min. Today we do the usual: about 35 minutes. The big Iguana is sunning himself, out from under his home in the sewer drain in front of Garrafon. We stopped and did a little beachcombing on the North side of the island and watched the nice white foam of the waves. Just like a campfire: memorizing.We shower and I prepare our breakfast: yogurt over sliced banana with almonds on top, sliced apple, toast from the bread Sydney made, orange juice, coffee. No vitamins today. We eat on our patio, watching the turquoise of the Caribbean and the palm fronds in the breeze. It is now almost 11:00am. We have read, run, showered, eaten. We are ready to head into town with our laptops to check-in with the world. We also need to leave so Veronica can do some cleaning: she cleans on Monday and Friday, which also means doing our laundry which we leave in a plastic bag. We ride our bikes into town which takes about 20-25 minutes. A little longer today because we stop at one of the speed bumps where there is a political rally ongoing. Some volunteers are handing out hats, pamphlets and pens. Some are dressed in chicken(?) costumes. Sydney stops to get a pen. I decline a hat. We both have no idea who the candidates are or what platforms they represent. The election is this Sunday, Feb. 3, which is the only day of the week that most of these people won’t be at work. It is also Super Bowl Sunday.We arrive at Adrian’s Internet shop, it’s about noon. We log on and spend about an hour. I check our bank accounts: no deposit yet from my annual leave buyout. We have about $460 in checking-enough to get us through. We also have $300 in USD to exchange for Pesos. The rate today is $1 USD to $10.70 Pesos, so we opt not to exchange and instead withdraw cash via an ATM from a checking account. It is now after 1:00pm, we go next door to the big market, which is not quite as big as the Co-Op market. Sydney gets some vanilla, Hershey’s chocolate, some sponges, and a few other things. I get some more candles and a bag of peanuts which are coated in soy sauce. God, they’re good! I might add, this is my second purchase of candles, we love our evenings by candlelight. Our condo didn’t come with end tables and lamps. We unlock our bikes from the post which holds a trash basket and ride down to the Farmers Market, about 4 blocks away. I get us a plastic bottle of squeezed orange juice while Sydney buys some avocados, cilantro, bananas, peppers, celery. The celery she selects the two stalks she wants from the bunch, just buying those two! We would like a pineapple but none of them look very fresh. I take a picture of the butcher who is in today cutting meat. Fresh air meat market!We put our purchases in our backpacks, which also hold our laptops, and ride the outskirts of town to a little rise where there is a statue of a turtle and a fisherman. It is about 1:45pm and we stop to drink our orange juice and eat some of the soy sauce peanuts. A little charge-up before pedaling home. We arrive home about 2:30pm, Veronica has come and gone. Sydney comments on how nice and clean the tile floor always feels after she has cleaned. We put our purchases away and lay down for, as Sydney calls it: “a little rest time.” We each read for about 30 minutes until we fall asleep. It is now about 4:00pm. We opt to read some more instead of heading to the pool or beach. We sit out on our patio, catching the downhill western slide of the sun. We read probably an average 3-4 hours a day. It’s great, never have I had so much disposable time to read!The sun sets about 6:00pm here. It also rises at about 6:00am. 12 hours of light, 12 hours of dark. Gotta love a balanced day! I go in and make a batch of guacamole, a good one this time since we bought some cilantro earlier today. Cilantro makes guacamole, I’m convinced. In the waning sunset light we have a cribbage match, with a glass of white wine, guacamole with saltine crackers. Sydney gets to deal, her turn. She is ahead 4 games to 3. Damn! She is now ahead 5 games to 3. My deal next time…It’s about 7:00pm. Time for dinner. Tonight Chef Boy-R-Sydney has brewed up a nice batch of black bean soup. So many different spices and tastes! Terrific smells while it was cooking! We have some curried rice from last night along with it. And some of her bread, too! Water is our beverage tonight. Tonight we don’t have our candles or our music, we eat ala natural! We both have commented on what a perfect addition the portable speakers are that Morgan got me for Christmas! They work for our IPod or laptops. And they are still running on the original batteries! Since Sydney cooked, I do the dishes. All 5 of them! I also make the coffee, which has an automatic timer which makes it brew at 7:00am. It’s now about 7:45pm, time for bed. We take our turn with the Sonic toothbrush. Close the patio sliding doors. We each lay on our double bed, reading for probably an hour. Since we don’t wear wristwatches, we never really know what time it is. I usually check the clock on the coffee maker to see what time it is. I imagine we turn the light out about 9:00pm. And there it is…Monday, January 28, 2008, is history! Did we get a lot accomplished: probably not. Did we enjoy ourselves: definitely! Thanks for reading. Adios, amigos! Esteben
Monday, January 28, 2008
Isla Files 1.27
Yesterday was our first taste of Mardi Gras on Isla. We were sitting out by the pool and Veronica came running up the stairs from the bodega. She told me that the kids were going to be doing a street dance in front of the store in about 10 minutes. It was difficult for me to understand her but I definitely got the “kids dancing in the streets” part. Soon the entire street in front of the Casa was filled with families. Jose Luis’ son Vlad had a new horn on his car and he was clearing the way. Mom’s were busy helping children of all ages into costumes, adjusting this, straightening that. The little girls were especially priceless, dressed up as little pirate can-can dancers. A hatch-back with a generator strapped to the top and huge speakers in the back provided the music. The local motorcycle policeman even showed up to make sure that no one got too perturbed by the fact that this main street was temporarily transformed into a stage. It was great to see the one Mom with the bull horn and Veronica with her camcorder. Proud parents are the same everywhere!
I expanded my bread baking efforts today by adding oatmeal (avena) to the mix. It is great to bake bread here because you can watch the dough rise. My main problems today were running out of flour and figuring out a way to keep these tiny little ants out of the raising dough. Our little store was out of flour but not to worry. Nellie sent Jose Luis in to town to get some. She told me to come back in about 20 minutes. We don’t use plastic wrap here but I solved the ant problem by covering the dough with pot lids. I also think that I figured out the oven. The dial reads counter-clockwise from “5” to “1” with the 5 in the 12 position and the 1 located where you would find 3 on a clock. I think the 5 stands for 500, 4 for 400, and so on. I put the dial half way between the 4 and the 3 hoping that I had landed on 350. Since everything is in centigrade here and this stove is at least 25 years old, I can’t be sure but the bread turned out great so maybe I am on to something. This morning I shared some slices of bread with Jose Luis and with Judy and Bill. Judy says my bread is “to die for.” I will take that as high praise. Bill says he would like some bacon tomorrow.
Steve and I went in to town last night to check on the Mardi Gras festivities. The square was humming and it is the first time we have ever seen the doors to the church closed. We passed the local priest on the way in and he did not look at all happy. Alcoholism is a big problem on this island and I am sure that big street parties like this only make matters worse. The street dance in front of our casa is more my style.
Today we went beach combing on the east side of the island. We found some very nice shells and a 5-gallon plastic container, maybe a gas can. I attached it to my bike with my bungee cords and brought it home. I figured that Luis or Francisco (the 2 grounds keepers) may have a use for it. If not, it is near the trash container. Steve said I looked like a true island woman with tons of stuff strapped to my bike!
I expanded my bread baking efforts today by adding oatmeal (avena) to the mix. It is great to bake bread here because you can watch the dough rise. My main problems today were running out of flour and figuring out a way to keep these tiny little ants out of the raising dough. Our little store was out of flour but not to worry. Nellie sent Jose Luis in to town to get some. She told me to come back in about 20 minutes. We don’t use plastic wrap here but I solved the ant problem by covering the dough with pot lids. I also think that I figured out the oven. The dial reads counter-clockwise from “5” to “1” with the 5 in the 12 position and the 1 located where you would find 3 on a clock. I think the 5 stands for 500, 4 for 400, and so on. I put the dial half way between the 4 and the 3 hoping that I had landed on 350. Since everything is in centigrade here and this stove is at least 25 years old, I can’t be sure but the bread turned out great so maybe I am on to something. This morning I shared some slices of bread with Jose Luis and with Judy and Bill. Judy says my bread is “to die for.” I will take that as high praise. Bill says he would like some bacon tomorrow.
Steve and I went in to town last night to check on the Mardi Gras festivities. The square was humming and it is the first time we have ever seen the doors to the church closed. We passed the local priest on the way in and he did not look at all happy. Alcoholism is a big problem on this island and I am sure that big street parties like this only make matters worse. The street dance in front of our casa is more my style.
Today we went beach combing on the east side of the island. We found some very nice shells and a 5-gallon plastic container, maybe a gas can. I attached it to my bike with my bungee cords and brought it home. I figured that Luis or Francisco (the 2 grounds keepers) may have a use for it. If not, it is near the trash container. Steve said I looked like a true island woman with tons of stuff strapped to my bike!
Isla Files 1.26
Steve and Sydney Stardate--1.26Greetings from Mexico! Sydney has explained to me the nuances of contributing to the blog site so I thought I could throw-in with my 2 pesos. We have now been here a little over 2 weeks and have settled into a new lifestyle. I will try and summarize the high points since we arrived on Jan. 9:
the first thing I did is take my watch off. What an amazing way to go through life! The first couple of days I was lost, constantly walking to my right because of the lack of weight on my left wrist and looking at the hair on that wrist. Needless to say my day is governed by the sun and a new need of not knowing. This is great! I don’t care what time it is! Never before in my life…!my life is governed by sunscreen. Before I can go outside I have to put on sunscreen. I have become accustomed to this duty, especially the “click-clack” of the flip top on the tube of stuff. Now I understand how and why these folks are so brown. This sun definitely has some zip in its’ do-dah!my attire consists of about 4 different garments: running shorts, tank top, dress shorts, tank top. Bingo! No decisions! This is great!for 250 pesos ($25) we get our place cleaned twice a week along with fresh sheets, towels, etc., and our clothes washed/dried. We usually don’t have much for laundry, would not even be a full load at home. Veronica is the manager’s daughter and a very thoughtful, pleasant woman who does the housekeeping. She has a husband named Vladimir! Family name!? He’s very big for a Mexican, well over 6’and always willing to help. we run on Lunes, Miercoles, Viernes. Today, Sabado, we did a long run in the morning, just like at home. Ran for 1hr 10min. I felt dehydrated at about 45 minutes. Just like at home: what a great way to start the day! Not many runners around here, more walkers than runners and they are usually gringos. I still sweat when I eat! I hope that by the time we leave I will have acclimated! It is causing me to eat slower, so far I just sweat longer but, I’m holding out that it will help. At least I don’t sweat while I breathe!since we are living in a condo complex, we have met a number of other co-dwellers:Bill and Judy-retired residents of New Jersey. They own a retail shop back there, also have a condo in Pennsylvania. I have heard his story about being duped out of not one, but two, retirements during his career as a concrete pipe engineer! He is involved in litigation on the last one, poor guy. I think he’ll land on his feet, he seems that type. His wife is a hoot! She has that strong eastern seaboard twang and goes a mile a minute. Their golf cart is a black/white Holstein motif with a horn that goes “moooo!” They eat out every night, she refuses to cook!Robin and Jerry-he’s a retired Director of Corrections from Colorado! His wife is a spiritual healer, the kind that doesn’t touch. She heals by hovering. Haven’t had an occasion to discuss criminal justice with Jerry. I think we both might not be ready. They have done a complete makeover on their condo; new archways, hurricane shutters, furniture. Not sure how long they have been retired.Jean and Ace-they are from South Dakota. Not sure, but I think they are recently retired. Haven’t seen him but once, guess his health isn’t all that great. She gets out and walks every morning. Will investigate and report more later…There have been a number of intermittent guests, people who have rented condos for a week or so and then go on home, or wherever. We met a cop from New Jersey last weekend, along with his wife and 3 kids. Damned if we haven’t seen them since! Have no idea where they spend their days, it hasn’t been around here! And there is a nice pool here, too! You’d think those kids would be in there every waking hour.Met another guy and his wife from Minnesota, along with their little boy. He was here a week but had to go back to work. He left his wife and son here, guess they just couldn’t face more winter back there! He’s a software engineer for SeaGate.One of the original owners/developers lives in our building. He is a Mexican man and his wife has some health issues. We don’t see much of them, they stick pretty close to la casa. I would be interested in visiting with him, learning how he came to develop these condos 17 years ago.
I am learning how to deal with telling people I am retired. As soon as you do it puts you in the same boat with them, like it or not! Looking at some of these folks, they don’t look so redhot! Oh well, I yam what I yam! And I yam now retired! Just makes me feel kind of old declaring it.For the first time in my life I honestly feel like if I don’t get something done today, I will tomorrow, maybe! It’s always been a rush and a hustle to get things done: agendas, timelines, deadlines…not only work, but personal life, too. Now, we don’t have any responsibilities down here. Just to each other. What a great way to live! The only appointments we have are to meet the dive boat at a given time. Dinner? Are you hungry? No? Let’s eat later. Which brings me to my next topic:Food. We are slowly, closely becoming vegetarian. Not on purpose, just because. Because the meat in the grocery stores doesn’t look all that appealing. It’s not displayed nicely like in Albertsons. Hell, even WinCo is light years ahead of these butchers, and they are weak sauce! Most of the meat is cut on the spot. And they don’t sell fish in the groceries. You go down to the dock and buy fresh. We found the dock yesterday and hope to make use of it. It’s just so easy to boil some rice, peel a couple of carrots, cut some homemade bread that Sydney has made, pour a glass of wine and call it good. So far so good…there is a bag of Cheetos in the little store in front of the condos and I haven’t bought it! I look at it every time I go in there, too! Lord, help me!I am enjoying being language challenged. Amazing how it eliminates a lot of responsibility! I figure if it is really important they will make me understand, if not, well, no harm/no foul! I have had some pretty incredible discourses with some people: they don’t understand me and I don’t understand them. But, we get the job done. I use my hands a lot…This has been a fun opportunity for Sydney and I to play house. When we got married we combined mine and hers and had ours. Everything needed for housekeeping, including children, jobs, pets, etc. Here, we have started from scratch and it has been fun! Discussing what is needed next, what we can make do with, how to get this or that, where to get this or that! We pretend that we are back in college “shacking up!” Only now we have VISA!I am learning a lot from the Mexicans. Talk about minimalists! They make-do in the truest sense. Because they just don’t have it. And they are good with it, fortunately they don’t know any better. Or, do they? They see the rest of the world and have to know that they are lacking. Guess they have faith that things will work out. I am impressed with their sense of family. They may literally live in a shack but their children are clean with clean clothes. We frequently see a father, mother and a Niño on a scooter. The Niño will stand between the driver’s legs and away they all go! These people smile a lot and I like that! No attitudes from them…no impatience, frustration, anger. Fortunately, they haven’t discovered road rage because, riding our bikes, we push them to the limits!Okay, my fingers are tired and I’m going to end this discussion. Sydney and I truly are having the time of our lives! Words can’t describe our experience, so I am attaching some pictures, which hopefully will say a thousand words! Adios, mia amigos! Esteben
the first thing I did is take my watch off. What an amazing way to go through life! The first couple of days I was lost, constantly walking to my right because of the lack of weight on my left wrist and looking at the hair on that wrist. Needless to say my day is governed by the sun and a new need of not knowing. This is great! I don’t care what time it is! Never before in my life…!my life is governed by sunscreen. Before I can go outside I have to put on sunscreen. I have become accustomed to this duty, especially the “click-clack” of the flip top on the tube of stuff. Now I understand how and why these folks are so brown. This sun definitely has some zip in its’ do-dah!my attire consists of about 4 different garments: running shorts, tank top, dress shorts, tank top. Bingo! No decisions! This is great!for 250 pesos ($25) we get our place cleaned twice a week along with fresh sheets, towels, etc., and our clothes washed/dried. We usually don’t have much for laundry, would not even be a full load at home. Veronica is the manager’s daughter and a very thoughtful, pleasant woman who does the housekeeping. She has a husband named Vladimir! Family name!? He’s very big for a Mexican, well over 6’and always willing to help. we run on Lunes, Miercoles, Viernes. Today, Sabado, we did a long run in the morning, just like at home. Ran for 1hr 10min. I felt dehydrated at about 45 minutes. Just like at home: what a great way to start the day! Not many runners around here, more walkers than runners and they are usually gringos. I still sweat when I eat! I hope that by the time we leave I will have acclimated! It is causing me to eat slower, so far I just sweat longer but, I’m holding out that it will help. At least I don’t sweat while I breathe!since we are living in a condo complex, we have met a number of other co-dwellers:Bill and Judy-retired residents of New Jersey. They own a retail shop back there, also have a condo in Pennsylvania. I have heard his story about being duped out of not one, but two, retirements during his career as a concrete pipe engineer! He is involved in litigation on the last one, poor guy. I think he’ll land on his feet, he seems that type. His wife is a hoot! She has that strong eastern seaboard twang and goes a mile a minute. Their golf cart is a black/white Holstein motif with a horn that goes “moooo!” They eat out every night, she refuses to cook!Robin and Jerry-he’s a retired Director of Corrections from Colorado! His wife is a spiritual healer, the kind that doesn’t touch. She heals by hovering. Haven’t had an occasion to discuss criminal justice with Jerry. I think we both might not be ready. They have done a complete makeover on their condo; new archways, hurricane shutters, furniture. Not sure how long they have been retired.Jean and Ace-they are from South Dakota. Not sure, but I think they are recently retired. Haven’t seen him but once, guess his health isn’t all that great. She gets out and walks every morning. Will investigate and report more later…There have been a number of intermittent guests, people who have rented condos for a week or so and then go on home, or wherever. We met a cop from New Jersey last weekend, along with his wife and 3 kids. Damned if we haven’t seen them since! Have no idea where they spend their days, it hasn’t been around here! And there is a nice pool here, too! You’d think those kids would be in there every waking hour.Met another guy and his wife from Minnesota, along with their little boy. He was here a week but had to go back to work. He left his wife and son here, guess they just couldn’t face more winter back there! He’s a software engineer for SeaGate.One of the original owners/developers lives in our building. He is a Mexican man and his wife has some health issues. We don’t see much of them, they stick pretty close to la casa. I would be interested in visiting with him, learning how he came to develop these condos 17 years ago.
I am learning how to deal with telling people I am retired. As soon as you do it puts you in the same boat with them, like it or not! Looking at some of these folks, they don’t look so redhot! Oh well, I yam what I yam! And I yam now retired! Just makes me feel kind of old declaring it.For the first time in my life I honestly feel like if I don’t get something done today, I will tomorrow, maybe! It’s always been a rush and a hustle to get things done: agendas, timelines, deadlines…not only work, but personal life, too. Now, we don’t have any responsibilities down here. Just to each other. What a great way to live! The only appointments we have are to meet the dive boat at a given time. Dinner? Are you hungry? No? Let’s eat later. Which brings me to my next topic:Food. We are slowly, closely becoming vegetarian. Not on purpose, just because. Because the meat in the grocery stores doesn’t look all that appealing. It’s not displayed nicely like in Albertsons. Hell, even WinCo is light years ahead of these butchers, and they are weak sauce! Most of the meat is cut on the spot. And they don’t sell fish in the groceries. You go down to the dock and buy fresh. We found the dock yesterday and hope to make use of it. It’s just so easy to boil some rice, peel a couple of carrots, cut some homemade bread that Sydney has made, pour a glass of wine and call it good. So far so good…there is a bag of Cheetos in the little store in front of the condos and I haven’t bought it! I look at it every time I go in there, too! Lord, help me!I am enjoying being language challenged. Amazing how it eliminates a lot of responsibility! I figure if it is really important they will make me understand, if not, well, no harm/no foul! I have had some pretty incredible discourses with some people: they don’t understand me and I don’t understand them. But, we get the job done. I use my hands a lot…This has been a fun opportunity for Sydney and I to play house. When we got married we combined mine and hers and had ours. Everything needed for housekeeping, including children, jobs, pets, etc. Here, we have started from scratch and it has been fun! Discussing what is needed next, what we can make do with, how to get this or that, where to get this or that! We pretend that we are back in college “shacking up!” Only now we have VISA!I am learning a lot from the Mexicans. Talk about minimalists! They make-do in the truest sense. Because they just don’t have it. And they are good with it, fortunately they don’t know any better. Or, do they? They see the rest of the world and have to know that they are lacking. Guess they have faith that things will work out. I am impressed with their sense of family. They may literally live in a shack but their children are clean with clean clothes. We frequently see a father, mother and a Niño on a scooter. The Niño will stand between the driver’s legs and away they all go! These people smile a lot and I like that! No attitudes from them…no impatience, frustration, anger. Fortunately, they haven’t discovered road rage because, riding our bikes, we push them to the limits!Okay, my fingers are tired and I’m going to end this discussion. Sydney and I truly are having the time of our lives! Words can’t describe our experience, so I am attaching some pictures, which hopefully will say a thousand words! Adios, mia amigos! Esteben
Friday, January 25, 2008
Isla Files 1.22 and 1.24
Isla Files 1.22
We went in to town today with a couple of objectives. Steve has some secret things to do for my birthday, I am going to try to get in touch with Arturo or Omar via the internet and also contact Avalino in Akumal to see if we can line up some cenote diving when Susan and Joe are here. I asked Adrian about salon services in town. He directed me to Casa Luz, a new spa on Ave. Juarez. I made an appointment for the next day just to check it out. I figure that it will be a good diversion if the weather is nasty while we have visitors. I also need to take the Spanish/English dictionary back to Manana Café to see if they will buy it back. I paid 80 pesos for it (a 1977 model) and they are happy to buy it back for 40 pesos. I wonder how many times they have bought and sold the same dictionary?
One of the few travel agencies on the island is next door to Manana. We find out that we can travel to Cuba, all papers, ground transportation, 2 nights lodging, and 2 breakfast for $329 US. Cuba is only about a 20 minute flight from Cancun so this might be something to think about.
Isla Files 1.24
Today is my birthday. I can hardly believe that I am 55 years old! Steve has been doing secret errands, so I am curious about what lies in store for me today!
We went diving this morning. The man that owns Indio’s wanted $10.00 apiece for us to be picked up from his pier. Constantino has arranged for our pick up at Casa O’s pier. That means a walk of about 300 meters up the road and then down a very steep driveway carrying our scuba gear on our backs. I am not too worried about the walk there but I am afraid that the walk back with heavy, wet scuba gear will be difficult at best. In typical island fashion Jose Luis hears of our predicament and arranges for our pick up at Playa Gaviota which is a little closer. He manages the Inn at Playa Gaviota (Seagull beach) so there is no problem with the pick up. However, the dive boat has not gotten the message!! They went zipping by as we waited on the beach and we could see them turn in to the Casa O dock. Steve said “Oh well. We’ll just dive tomorrow.” but I decided to jog down the beach and signal the boat. I finally got their attention and back they came to pick us up.
The dives today were fantastic. We dove the same wreck that we went to last week but this week the current was completely different, barely running. We descended into the wreck and saw huge schools of fish, wrasse, sargeant major fish, and lots of angel fish. Large spotted eagle rays were circling the wreck. We even saw a small pod of 4 medium size rays. They are so incredibly graceful.
The second dive was equally fantastic. We dropped down onto a coral reef that was just teeming with sea life. We immediately spotted a medium sized turtle cruising lazily around the reef. Unlike many other turtles that we have seen, he or she didn’t seem particularly intimidated by us. The coral here is very brightly colored in reds, yellows, blacks, greens, and purples. The reef looks very healthy and you can clearly see where it has repaired itself following Wilma. Before the dive is over we spot another turtle, a good sized nurse shark, lots of baracuda, and some huge lobsters. Everyone comes back to the boat exhilarated by the experience.
Enrique is the dive master on this trip. We have dived with him before and love his energy. He is constantly smiling and making jokes. He is incredibly quick witted and has a sly sense of humor. We hope to dive with him again, especially when our friends Susan and Joe come to visit.
Back at the shack we are relaxing on our patio when we heard the unmistakable and nauseating sound of a scooter crash. Two young Americans have gone down in front of the apartment. We bring them in and clean them up. They are badly shaken, bruised, bloody but do not appear to have any broken bones. Thank goodness they were wearing helmets. The back tire of the scooter flatted and caused them to loose control. After they are all cleaned up Jerry (another resident of Isla Bonita) loads them into his golf cart and takes them back into town. I caution them to see the local doctor if they have any signs of infection and then wish I had gotten their names and hotel information so that I could check up on them. We find out that today is the young man’s mother’s birthday. Talk about a Karmic twist. I am glad that I was able to stand in for her to patch up her son.
Steve and I went up the street to Maria’s Kan Kin for dinner. We had an amazing table overlooking the channel with the lights of Cancun in the distance. Very romantic!! I ordered the trozo (grouper) and it was incredible! We will definitely go back for more of that.
We had a little party when we got back to the casa. Steve got a little cake in town and bought me a beautiful box made from a gourd that he bought at a little Mayan shop in town. Sitting on our balcony, listening to the gentle breezes of the island, and watching the lights of Cancun: what a wonderful way to spend a birthday.
We went in to town today with a couple of objectives. Steve has some secret things to do for my birthday, I am going to try to get in touch with Arturo or Omar via the internet and also contact Avalino in Akumal to see if we can line up some cenote diving when Susan and Joe are here. I asked Adrian about salon services in town. He directed me to Casa Luz, a new spa on Ave. Juarez. I made an appointment for the next day just to check it out. I figure that it will be a good diversion if the weather is nasty while we have visitors. I also need to take the Spanish/English dictionary back to Manana Café to see if they will buy it back. I paid 80 pesos for it (a 1977 model) and they are happy to buy it back for 40 pesos. I wonder how many times they have bought and sold the same dictionary?
One of the few travel agencies on the island is next door to Manana. We find out that we can travel to Cuba, all papers, ground transportation, 2 nights lodging, and 2 breakfast for $329 US. Cuba is only about a 20 minute flight from Cancun so this might be something to think about.
Isla Files 1.24
Today is my birthday. I can hardly believe that I am 55 years old! Steve has been doing secret errands, so I am curious about what lies in store for me today!
We went diving this morning. The man that owns Indio’s wanted $10.00 apiece for us to be picked up from his pier. Constantino has arranged for our pick up at Casa O’s pier. That means a walk of about 300 meters up the road and then down a very steep driveway carrying our scuba gear on our backs. I am not too worried about the walk there but I am afraid that the walk back with heavy, wet scuba gear will be difficult at best. In typical island fashion Jose Luis hears of our predicament and arranges for our pick up at Playa Gaviota which is a little closer. He manages the Inn at Playa Gaviota (Seagull beach) so there is no problem with the pick up. However, the dive boat has not gotten the message!! They went zipping by as we waited on the beach and we could see them turn in to the Casa O dock. Steve said “Oh well. We’ll just dive tomorrow.” but I decided to jog down the beach and signal the boat. I finally got their attention and back they came to pick us up.
The dives today were fantastic. We dove the same wreck that we went to last week but this week the current was completely different, barely running. We descended into the wreck and saw huge schools of fish, wrasse, sargeant major fish, and lots of angel fish. Large spotted eagle rays were circling the wreck. We even saw a small pod of 4 medium size rays. They are so incredibly graceful.
The second dive was equally fantastic. We dropped down onto a coral reef that was just teeming with sea life. We immediately spotted a medium sized turtle cruising lazily around the reef. Unlike many other turtles that we have seen, he or she didn’t seem particularly intimidated by us. The coral here is very brightly colored in reds, yellows, blacks, greens, and purples. The reef looks very healthy and you can clearly see where it has repaired itself following Wilma. Before the dive is over we spot another turtle, a good sized nurse shark, lots of baracuda, and some huge lobsters. Everyone comes back to the boat exhilarated by the experience.
Enrique is the dive master on this trip. We have dived with him before and love his energy. He is constantly smiling and making jokes. He is incredibly quick witted and has a sly sense of humor. We hope to dive with him again, especially when our friends Susan and Joe come to visit.
Back at the shack we are relaxing on our patio when we heard the unmistakable and nauseating sound of a scooter crash. Two young Americans have gone down in front of the apartment. We bring them in and clean them up. They are badly shaken, bruised, bloody but do not appear to have any broken bones. Thank goodness they were wearing helmets. The back tire of the scooter flatted and caused them to loose control. After they are all cleaned up Jerry (another resident of Isla Bonita) loads them into his golf cart and takes them back into town. I caution them to see the local doctor if they have any signs of infection and then wish I had gotten their names and hotel information so that I could check up on them. We find out that today is the young man’s mother’s birthday. Talk about a Karmic twist. I am glad that I was able to stand in for her to patch up her son.
Steve and I went up the street to Maria’s Kan Kin for dinner. We had an amazing table overlooking the channel with the lights of Cancun in the distance. Very romantic!! I ordered the trozo (grouper) and it was incredible! We will definitely go back for more of that.
We had a little party when we got back to the casa. Steve got a little cake in town and bought me a beautiful box made from a gourd that he bought at a little Mayan shop in town. Sitting on our balcony, listening to the gentle breezes of the island, and watching the lights of Cancun: what a wonderful way to spend a birthday.
Tuesday, January 22, 2008
Isla Files 1.20 and 1.21
Isla Files 1.20
The wind changed directions last night and now we have a gale blowing from the south. Where last week the curtains billowed into the bedroom now they are sucked flat agains the screen. Steve is posted on the balcony with the binoculars. He reports huge waves hitting Cancun. The port is closed and the only boats are the 2 ferries that provide access to the island. We will stay in today and read. We could watch TV but the only programs we are able to find are Spanish soap operas. I suppose that if I watched them for long enough I would eventually be fluent in the dramatic language of lost love!
Speaking of fluency, Steve and I forgot to bring our Spanish/English dictionaries. I was able to pick one up at Manana Café yesterday. Here is the problem: the dictionary was last edited in 1977 and the type face is about a 4. We can’t even read it using the magnifying glass! Also, the price for the new copy of this in 1977 was $3.95 and I paid 80 pesos or about $8.00 yesterday! It serves me right. I should have at least opened it before I bought it. Up til now the only dictionaries at Manana were English/German, German/Spanish, and Japanese/Spanish. We are going to Cancun later this week and we will locate a bookstore with a more modern version. Maybe I can even get one with Reader’s Digests size print!!
We are beginning to make friends with the vendors at the Mercado. Yesterday one of the women that we frequently trade with gave us 3 free tangerines and Steve’s favorite vendor sold him some chayote and told him how to prepare it with onions and potatoes. He also talked us into buying some fresh tangerine juice. We must have looked hot and tired but the juice was incredibly delicious!
I am making a bath mat out of 2 utility towels. Our linens are few and our bathroom floor is marble which gets slippery when wet. The yarn shop was closed yesterday but I think I will just use regular thread. Maybe if I make another one for our “guest” bathroom I will get more fancy!
I am thinking that we should ride our bikes into the gringo bar at the north end of town and catch a little of the Patriots--Chargers game today. I need to scope out a good spot to watch the Super Bowl in 2 weeks.
The afternoon has continued rainy and windy, too windy to ride our bikes to town. Steve and I read, play on our computers, make Jell-o, and take naps. Typical Sunday activities. By about 4:00 I am ready to go adventuring. We haven’t really been out of the house all day so I suggest a walk up to the Casa del Suenos Spa to check on prices for pedicures and massages. I am looking out for fun activities for when friends come to visit. We start up the road but are immediately are side tracked by a “se vende” sign for the hummingbird hide-away. We take the path to the left and are immediately on the other side of the island. I don’t know where the hide-away is but it must be almost as small as a hummingbird’s nest. The island is less than a half mile wide here so we just start up the road on the other side of the island, headed south.
The wind is howling!! Great big rollers are coming in off the Caribbean. The water is an incredible green color with massive grey clouds dipping down to the surface across the sea. Definitely no possibility of spotting Cuba today.
We take a path to the left as we reach the south end of the island “Punta Sur.” This takes us to a limestone cliff jutting out over the ocean. We are about 100 feet above the breaking waves. As they crash against the jagged rocks below, great globs of foam are wafted sometimes more than 100 feet into the air. The wind at this point is so strong that I have to lean into it to remain upright. The power of the weather is fantastic!!
We make our way back to the casa along the west side of the island. We are amazed to see people dressed in hats and jackets. It is about 75 degrees but the wind-chill makes it about 65. This is the coolest it has been since we have arrived. I have on my only long sleeve shirt but we are both in shorts. We have had to give up on our hats as they are constantly being snatched from our heads. Our outing has left us breathless but energized.
When we get back to the casa Steve starts fiddling with the TV. Voila! Presto!! Que Milagros! We have the Pacadero/Giganto game live from Green Bay! Of course it is in Spanish. We are shocked by the horrible temperature and feel pretty lucky to watching the game from 3,000 miles south! The Spanish announcers are fantastic. “Incompleto!” I have learned some new football lingo.
Isla Files: 1.21
Still raining but less windy this morning. The clouds are like partially drying stucco obscuring Cancun, the sky, even the channel. After our Monday morning run around the south end we decide to head for Cancun. We need to stock up on some things we haven’t been able to find on Isla. We have a great cab ride into town and tell our driver that it is OK to pick up extra people. We end up taking an older woman into one of the neighborhoods that line the harbor. We have not been here before. There is so much tucked away on this island.
Our experience today takes us to La Plaza de las Americas on the north edge of Cancun. It is amazing how much NAFTA has leveled the playing field as far as shopping is concerned. Adidas, Nike, New Balance, iPod are everywhere, just like in Boise. In Chidruai, the major grocery store, you can buy everything from tires to tequila. We get a bathmat, some glasses, a drainer, and some placemats then sit on a bench outside the store to do a little people watching. It is a great way to spend an hour or 2!
It has only taken us a few hours to complete our errands so we decide to take in a movie. There is an 8 screen Cineopolis in this mall. Some of the movies are in Spanish and many are in English with Spanish subtitles. We choose “Soy Leyende” (I am Legend) starring Will Smith and are entertained for a couple of hours. The movies cost 38 pesos (about $3.50) if you go before 5. They have great caramel corn. We split a mediamo for 31 pesos and call it lunch.
We are astonished by the huge puddles in the street when we drive back to Puerto Juarez and again on Isla when we get off the ferry. It easily must have rained a couple of inches while we were inside. A good day for the movies!
The wind changed directions last night and now we have a gale blowing from the south. Where last week the curtains billowed into the bedroom now they are sucked flat agains the screen. Steve is posted on the balcony with the binoculars. He reports huge waves hitting Cancun. The port is closed and the only boats are the 2 ferries that provide access to the island. We will stay in today and read. We could watch TV but the only programs we are able to find are Spanish soap operas. I suppose that if I watched them for long enough I would eventually be fluent in the dramatic language of lost love!
Speaking of fluency, Steve and I forgot to bring our Spanish/English dictionaries. I was able to pick one up at Manana Café yesterday. Here is the problem: the dictionary was last edited in 1977 and the type face is about a 4. We can’t even read it using the magnifying glass! Also, the price for the new copy of this in 1977 was $3.95 and I paid 80 pesos or about $8.00 yesterday! It serves me right. I should have at least opened it before I bought it. Up til now the only dictionaries at Manana were English/German, German/Spanish, and Japanese/Spanish. We are going to Cancun later this week and we will locate a bookstore with a more modern version. Maybe I can even get one with Reader’s Digests size print!!
We are beginning to make friends with the vendors at the Mercado. Yesterday one of the women that we frequently trade with gave us 3 free tangerines and Steve’s favorite vendor sold him some chayote and told him how to prepare it with onions and potatoes. He also talked us into buying some fresh tangerine juice. We must have looked hot and tired but the juice was incredibly delicious!
I am making a bath mat out of 2 utility towels. Our linens are few and our bathroom floor is marble which gets slippery when wet. The yarn shop was closed yesterday but I think I will just use regular thread. Maybe if I make another one for our “guest” bathroom I will get more fancy!
I am thinking that we should ride our bikes into the gringo bar at the north end of town and catch a little of the Patriots--Chargers game today. I need to scope out a good spot to watch the Super Bowl in 2 weeks.
The afternoon has continued rainy and windy, too windy to ride our bikes to town. Steve and I read, play on our computers, make Jell-o, and take naps. Typical Sunday activities. By about 4:00 I am ready to go adventuring. We haven’t really been out of the house all day so I suggest a walk up to the Casa del Suenos Spa to check on prices for pedicures and massages. I am looking out for fun activities for when friends come to visit. We start up the road but are immediately are side tracked by a “se vende” sign for the hummingbird hide-away. We take the path to the left and are immediately on the other side of the island. I don’t know where the hide-away is but it must be almost as small as a hummingbird’s nest. The island is less than a half mile wide here so we just start up the road on the other side of the island, headed south.
The wind is howling!! Great big rollers are coming in off the Caribbean. The water is an incredible green color with massive grey clouds dipping down to the surface across the sea. Definitely no possibility of spotting Cuba today.
We take a path to the left as we reach the south end of the island “Punta Sur.” This takes us to a limestone cliff jutting out over the ocean. We are about 100 feet above the breaking waves. As they crash against the jagged rocks below, great globs of foam are wafted sometimes more than 100 feet into the air. The wind at this point is so strong that I have to lean into it to remain upright. The power of the weather is fantastic!!
We make our way back to the casa along the west side of the island. We are amazed to see people dressed in hats and jackets. It is about 75 degrees but the wind-chill makes it about 65. This is the coolest it has been since we have arrived. I have on my only long sleeve shirt but we are both in shorts. We have had to give up on our hats as they are constantly being snatched from our heads. Our outing has left us breathless but energized.
When we get back to the casa Steve starts fiddling with the TV. Voila! Presto!! Que Milagros! We have the Pacadero/Giganto game live from Green Bay! Of course it is in Spanish. We are shocked by the horrible temperature and feel pretty lucky to watching the game from 3,000 miles south! The Spanish announcers are fantastic. “Incompleto!” I have learned some new football lingo.
Isla Files: 1.21
Still raining but less windy this morning. The clouds are like partially drying stucco obscuring Cancun, the sky, even the channel. After our Monday morning run around the south end we decide to head for Cancun. We need to stock up on some things we haven’t been able to find on Isla. We have a great cab ride into town and tell our driver that it is OK to pick up extra people. We end up taking an older woman into one of the neighborhoods that line the harbor. We have not been here before. There is so much tucked away on this island.
Our experience today takes us to La Plaza de las Americas on the north edge of Cancun. It is amazing how much NAFTA has leveled the playing field as far as shopping is concerned. Adidas, Nike, New Balance, iPod are everywhere, just like in Boise. In Chidruai, the major grocery store, you can buy everything from tires to tequila. We get a bathmat, some glasses, a drainer, and some placemats then sit on a bench outside the store to do a little people watching. It is a great way to spend an hour or 2!
It has only taken us a few hours to complete our errands so we decide to take in a movie. There is an 8 screen Cineopolis in this mall. Some of the movies are in Spanish and many are in English with Spanish subtitles. We choose “Soy Leyende” (I am Legend) starring Will Smith and are entertained for a couple of hours. The movies cost 38 pesos (about $3.50) if you go before 5. They have great caramel corn. We split a mediamo for 31 pesos and call it lunch.
We are astonished by the huge puddles in the street when we drive back to Puerto Juarez and again on Isla when we get off the ferry. It easily must have rained a couple of inches while we were inside. A good day for the movies!
Saturday, January 19, 2008
Isla Files 1.18
Isla Files 1.18
The weather has continued stormy for the past few days. This north wind is slowly lessening and the locals say that the storm will only last another day or two. Our mission yesterday: locate some fresh basil. There used to be a small greenhouse on the corner across from the ball field but it had one too many hurricanes and is closed. Jose Luis gave us some directions to find the “vivero.” It took us a couple of tries but we finally found it on a side street in the area of the island known as “La Colonial.” It is pretty bare bones but we were able to buy 2 beautiful basil plants for 30 pesos (about 3 dollars). We have a small garden area on our balcony that has only aloe vera growing there now. Jose Luis says that if you put the aloe vera in your hair, leave it in “maybe for one minute” and then rinse it out, it makes your hair really soft. He has beautiful hair so it is worth a try!
Today was our first day diving. The ocean was rough and there is a strong current along the reef. We went out on a boat with 6 other divers and 2 guides. Our boatman was so short he had to stand on the battery to see over the console.
The dives were great! We saw a whole school of spotted eagle rays (about a dozen), several large green moray eels, and 2 huge octopi. The fish down here are swarming as always. It is great to dive where there are so many fish! The area between the island and Cancun is closed to both cruise ships and fishing, so it is in good shape. Signs of the past 2 hurricanes are abundant with lots of sand dumped on the reef and pieces of broken coral. I am wondering if the sand on the reef is like a forest fire? Does it help the reef rejuvenate? Does it protect from global warming or does it just smother the coral?
The weather has continued stormy for the past few days. This north wind is slowly lessening and the locals say that the storm will only last another day or two. Our mission yesterday: locate some fresh basil. There used to be a small greenhouse on the corner across from the ball field but it had one too many hurricanes and is closed. Jose Luis gave us some directions to find the “vivero.” It took us a couple of tries but we finally found it on a side street in the area of the island known as “La Colonial.” It is pretty bare bones but we were able to buy 2 beautiful basil plants for 30 pesos (about 3 dollars). We have a small garden area on our balcony that has only aloe vera growing there now. Jose Luis says that if you put the aloe vera in your hair, leave it in “maybe for one minute” and then rinse it out, it makes your hair really soft. He has beautiful hair so it is worth a try!
Today was our first day diving. The ocean was rough and there is a strong current along the reef. We went out on a boat with 6 other divers and 2 guides. Our boatman was so short he had to stand on the battery to see over the console.
The dives were great! We saw a whole school of spotted eagle rays (about a dozen), several large green moray eels, and 2 huge octopi. The fish down here are swarming as always. It is great to dive where there are so many fish! The area between the island and Cancun is closed to both cruise ships and fishing, so it is in good shape. Signs of the past 2 hurricanes are abundant with lots of sand dumped on the reef and pieces of broken coral. I am wondering if the sand on the reef is like a forest fire? Does it help the reef rejuvenate? Does it protect from global warming or does it just smother the coral?
Wednesday, January 16, 2008
Isla Files 1.14
Isla Files: 1.14
We are gradually settling in to a routine. This morning we went for a run around the south end of the island “Punta Sur.” It takes us about 35 minutes to complete the loop but we are never out much before 9:00 so it is pretty hot. We run by the dump which only smells bad on the days they are burning it. The Mexican people don’t generate as much waste as we do but use everything until it is truly gone. We have looked in vain for second-hand shops on the island but there are none. Ditto for yard sales. We are going to try to find a coffee table but we will either have to buy one in Cancun or have one made for us.
We rode into town this afternoon to do our emailing and also pick up a few groceries. We found the bakery. It is run by a French woman named Lola. She says she found the island about 15 years ago and kept coming back on her vacations until she finally gave up and moved here. She has just expanded her bakery to include a restaurant. We will check it out one of these nights. Her bread is good but really expensive: 84 pesos (or about $8.00) for 2 skinny little loaves. I bought yeast and flour at the market today and will begin baking, maybe one day each week.
Adrian’s Internet was chaos with several senoritas chatting, some kids goofing around, and this one really obnoxious American woman yelling into her internet phone. It got to be too much for Steve, so he waited outside.
We stopped by Coral Divers and set up a dive for tomorrow. One of the things that we are going to try to do is work a deal with this guy to trade work for diving. We talked to him about the need for extra qualified personnel to chaperone dives. Right now he says there are more workers than divers but will keep us in mind.
We have many big iguanas living on the grounds here. I have named the biggest one Don Guan. He is about 4 to 5 feet long, including his tale. He has an amigo that is perhaps a little bigger but no tale. Looks like a traumatic amputation to me! I wonder if he is in the process of growing a new one?
Big storm this afternoon. We could see the rain coming across the Caribbean in long gray sheets. When the storm hit the island the drops were as big as saucers splattering on the pavement around our place. It only rained for about 15 minutes here but the coast of Cancun was obscured for an hour or more. Now, several hours later, it is still very windy and as cool as it has been since we got here, may only 74 or 75 degrees. We are hoping the storm blows over during the night and that we wake to blue skies and calm seas for diving in the morning.
Isla Files 1.15
Big storm last night. Big wind. Puddles in the road. The port is closed for little boats so no diving for us today. Constanino gives the message to Jose Luis as he passes by this morning. Already we are known: the 2 gringos in Numero 1 that like to dive. We hear that the storm is from the Northwest and may last 3 days. That’s OK with us…we can go diving on Friday.
We take a taxi into the town. Little red taxis that pass by our house.“Beep! Beep!” A nod, a wave, a shrug. “Do you need a ride? Can I help you? Is there anything…? Are you happy?” The quiet communication intrigues me. It is so different than the in-your-face approach from home.
We decide to take the ferry to Puerto Juarez and go to Costco in Cancun. We need pillows, a mattress pad, maybe some beach towels. It is amazing because the Costco is just the same as the one in Boise. The only difference being that they only have about 3 types of tires and the food court is outside. We look at Blue Bunny carrots from Stockton. They are so pale!! Not at all like the ones that we buy from the open air market on Isla. We get our stuff and then remember we don’t have a car. We pack the wine, cheese, bread, and beach towels into the back pack and I take the pillows and mattress pad, one parcel in each hand.
It takes us 4 hours to travel round trip to Costco and costs about $25.00 in transportation fees. Whew! We are exhausted by the time we get back and have to take a nap! Our new pillows are just too inviting. We think we will go snorkeling when we get up again but a new piece of the storm moves through and it rains about an inch in 20 minutes. Nothing else to do but sit on the balcony, play some cribbage, and watch the little red taxis.
We are gradually settling in to a routine. This morning we went for a run around the south end of the island “Punta Sur.” It takes us about 35 minutes to complete the loop but we are never out much before 9:00 so it is pretty hot. We run by the dump which only smells bad on the days they are burning it. The Mexican people don’t generate as much waste as we do but use everything until it is truly gone. We have looked in vain for second-hand shops on the island but there are none. Ditto for yard sales. We are going to try to find a coffee table but we will either have to buy one in Cancun or have one made for us.
We rode into town this afternoon to do our emailing and also pick up a few groceries. We found the bakery. It is run by a French woman named Lola. She says she found the island about 15 years ago and kept coming back on her vacations until she finally gave up and moved here. She has just expanded her bakery to include a restaurant. We will check it out one of these nights. Her bread is good but really expensive: 84 pesos (or about $8.00) for 2 skinny little loaves. I bought yeast and flour at the market today and will begin baking, maybe one day each week.
Adrian’s Internet was chaos with several senoritas chatting, some kids goofing around, and this one really obnoxious American woman yelling into her internet phone. It got to be too much for Steve, so he waited outside.
We stopped by Coral Divers and set up a dive for tomorrow. One of the things that we are going to try to do is work a deal with this guy to trade work for diving. We talked to him about the need for extra qualified personnel to chaperone dives. Right now he says there are more workers than divers but will keep us in mind.
We have many big iguanas living on the grounds here. I have named the biggest one Don Guan. He is about 4 to 5 feet long, including his tale. He has an amigo that is perhaps a little bigger but no tale. Looks like a traumatic amputation to me! I wonder if he is in the process of growing a new one?
Big storm this afternoon. We could see the rain coming across the Caribbean in long gray sheets. When the storm hit the island the drops were as big as saucers splattering on the pavement around our place. It only rained for about 15 minutes here but the coast of Cancun was obscured for an hour or more. Now, several hours later, it is still very windy and as cool as it has been since we got here, may only 74 or 75 degrees. We are hoping the storm blows over during the night and that we wake to blue skies and calm seas for diving in the morning.
Isla Files 1.15
Big storm last night. Big wind. Puddles in the road. The port is closed for little boats so no diving for us today. Constanino gives the message to Jose Luis as he passes by this morning. Already we are known: the 2 gringos in Numero 1 that like to dive. We hear that the storm is from the Northwest and may last 3 days. That’s OK with us…we can go diving on Friday.
We take a taxi into the town. Little red taxis that pass by our house.“Beep! Beep!” A nod, a wave, a shrug. “Do you need a ride? Can I help you? Is there anything…? Are you happy?” The quiet communication intrigues me. It is so different than the in-your-face approach from home.
We decide to take the ferry to Puerto Juarez and go to Costco in Cancun. We need pillows, a mattress pad, maybe some beach towels. It is amazing because the Costco is just the same as the one in Boise. The only difference being that they only have about 3 types of tires and the food court is outside. We look at Blue Bunny carrots from Stockton. They are so pale!! Not at all like the ones that we buy from the open air market on Isla. We get our stuff and then remember we don’t have a car. We pack the wine, cheese, bread, and beach towels into the back pack and I take the pillows and mattress pad, one parcel in each hand.
It takes us 4 hours to travel round trip to Costco and costs about $25.00 in transportation fees. Whew! We are exhausted by the time we get back and have to take a nap! Our new pillows are just too inviting. We think we will go snorkeling when we get up again but a new piece of the storm moves through and it rains about an inch in 20 minutes. Nothing else to do but sit on the balcony, play some cribbage, and watch the little red taxis.
Monday, January 14, 2008
Isla files: days 4, 5
Isla files: 1.11
Hooray! Hooray! We got our bikes today! They weigh about 50 pounds apiece and they both have kick-stands! I never thought that I would see Steve riding a bike like this. They are fantastic though and give us unlimited freedom on the island. We promptly rode downtown and got totally thrown on the one way streets. We kekpt going the wrong way but finally got oriented and made our way to Adrian’s internet. It was fun to get on-line and communicate with the outside world.
This island is the perfect temperature: between 80 to 85 during the day and between 75 and 78 at night. A cooling breeze is always blowing from the east side of the island. Our condo faces west so we aren’t in the direct sunlight until later in the afternoon. I imagine that later this spring it will get pretty hot out on our balcony later in the day. Oh well, we will just have to go to the pool or down to the beach when that happens!
Our beach is about 150 meters down a steep drive-way. At first glance you might think this place is abandon. “Indio’s.” I am waiting for Sunday to see if it is a local haunt. Today there were a few people on the beach and in the bar area. The pier is pretty rickety and looks as though it may be made from salvage wood. One of the pilings is just about worn through. Two egret hunt the turtle grass for small creatures and a third egret watchs from a safe distance. He seems to be an outcast or maybe a stray male trying to horn in on the territory. Egrets are incredibly graceful fliers. They look a lot like heron and have long black legs and super long black toenails!
Isla Files 1.12
This morning we were sitting on the balcony having breakfast and spotted a family of about 12 to 14 monkeys crossing the road!! Jose Luis says they aren’t really monkeys but did not know the English word. Macaws maybe. They have super long tails that stick straight up in the air. Apparently they are very savvy about the traffic and never get hit by cars or trucks. Sometimes they come around the condos looking for things to eat. I hope that we get to see them up close and in person. They are shy.
What other pets do we have? Lots of gekkos, iguanas, dogs, and a few cats. The dogs mostly live down on the beach at Indio’s Beach Club. Indio’s took quite a hit during Hurricane Keith and is slowly rebuilding. He has some beach chairs and a rickety doc. That is also where the egrets live, in his lagoon. I think there may be some good snorkeling out in front of his dock. Steve has had a sinus infection so we haven’t really gone swimming, diving, or snorkeling yet.
We rode the bikes into town today thinking that we could get some bar-be-que chicken at an open air grill that we keep going past. I will take a picture of it. This guy cooks about 100 chickens a day, maybe more. It smells terrific when you go past. He was just closing up when we got there. Saturday is a big night here and lots of businesses close early. We looked for the local bakery but it was closed, too. I think I will try making bread. At 78-80 degrees the kitchen will be a perfect place to raise dough. Otherwise it is Bimbo bread for us. Yuck!!
We rode back along the Eastern side of the island and stopped at Casa Las Brisas. They advertise “beer so cold it will make you teeth hurt.” Steve had to put it to the test! He was only able to check the temperature on one bottle though as it was getting dark and we do not have lights on our bikes. We headed home thinking that maybe we could get some chicken or fish at Playa La Lancheras (Fisherman’s Beach). They were closing up as well so it was back to the casa for beans and tortillas.
Isla Files 1.13
Lazy Sunday so we have decided to ride down to Na Balaam and check out the North Beach scene. The ride into town is easy and we don’t even get confused on the one way streets. North Beach is incredible. Where there once was a huge expanse of white sand now there is a small spit with handmade erosion jetties interspersed at the property lines. David at Na Balaam says that the beach had receded all the way up to the property line in November but has slowly returned “poco a poco.” We were saddened to see a new condominium project going in beside the Hotel Secreto. 69 condos really close to the water line, too. You just know they will not survive a hurricane like Keith 2 years ago. At one time we thought that this island was committed to low impact growth but that no longer seems to be the case. I think that the Mexican government pumped a lot of money into the whole Yucatan after Keith but perhaps with the caveat of reduced environmental standards.
The water off North Beach is still an incredible aquamarine and you can now walk out more than 200 yards and not be in water over your head. We spied coronet fish and bone fish in the shallows. About 20 boats, from lanchas to big yachts, were anchored and people were coming ashore to eat at the restaurants on the beach. English is definitely in the minority. Mostly Spanish, Dutch, and French spoken here.
We stopped by the chicken man “Chuc Khan Chen” on our way home hoping to score some chicken for dinner. He was out but we got “castillo.” I am not sure what that is and didn’t eat much of it. Steve said it was delicious. I think it may have been goat or mutton. It didn’t smell or taste like lamb but you never know. One time when I was here years ago I thought I was eating bat. Turns out it was some sort of deer but I always like to check. We got this whole sack of food for 35 pesos: meat, half an onion, some cole slaw (passed), cheese (didn’t eat that either), mole, and salsa.
We continue to look for the bakery. I think it may be closer to town but we will find it tomorrow. I am definitely going to make bread though.
Nellie and Veronica do not open the store on Sunday. I don’t know where they were all day but they just got back and trooped through the patio. “Hola! Hola!” They are always laughing and friendly.
Hooray! Hooray! We got our bikes today! They weigh about 50 pounds apiece and they both have kick-stands! I never thought that I would see Steve riding a bike like this. They are fantastic though and give us unlimited freedom on the island. We promptly rode downtown and got totally thrown on the one way streets. We kekpt going the wrong way but finally got oriented and made our way to Adrian’s internet. It was fun to get on-line and communicate with the outside world.
This island is the perfect temperature: between 80 to 85 during the day and between 75 and 78 at night. A cooling breeze is always blowing from the east side of the island. Our condo faces west so we aren’t in the direct sunlight until later in the afternoon. I imagine that later this spring it will get pretty hot out on our balcony later in the day. Oh well, we will just have to go to the pool or down to the beach when that happens!
Our beach is about 150 meters down a steep drive-way. At first glance you might think this place is abandon. “Indio’s.” I am waiting for Sunday to see if it is a local haunt. Today there were a few people on the beach and in the bar area. The pier is pretty rickety and looks as though it may be made from salvage wood. One of the pilings is just about worn through. Two egret hunt the turtle grass for small creatures and a third egret watchs from a safe distance. He seems to be an outcast or maybe a stray male trying to horn in on the territory. Egrets are incredibly graceful fliers. They look a lot like heron and have long black legs and super long black toenails!
Isla Files 1.12
This morning we were sitting on the balcony having breakfast and spotted a family of about 12 to 14 monkeys crossing the road!! Jose Luis says they aren’t really monkeys but did not know the English word. Macaws maybe. They have super long tails that stick straight up in the air. Apparently they are very savvy about the traffic and never get hit by cars or trucks. Sometimes they come around the condos looking for things to eat. I hope that we get to see them up close and in person. They are shy.
What other pets do we have? Lots of gekkos, iguanas, dogs, and a few cats. The dogs mostly live down on the beach at Indio’s Beach Club. Indio’s took quite a hit during Hurricane Keith and is slowly rebuilding. He has some beach chairs and a rickety doc. That is also where the egrets live, in his lagoon. I think there may be some good snorkeling out in front of his dock. Steve has had a sinus infection so we haven’t really gone swimming, diving, or snorkeling yet.
We rode the bikes into town today thinking that we could get some bar-be-que chicken at an open air grill that we keep going past. I will take a picture of it. This guy cooks about 100 chickens a day, maybe more. It smells terrific when you go past. He was just closing up when we got there. Saturday is a big night here and lots of businesses close early. We looked for the local bakery but it was closed, too. I think I will try making bread. At 78-80 degrees the kitchen will be a perfect place to raise dough. Otherwise it is Bimbo bread for us. Yuck!!
We rode back along the Eastern side of the island and stopped at Casa Las Brisas. They advertise “beer so cold it will make you teeth hurt.” Steve had to put it to the test! He was only able to check the temperature on one bottle though as it was getting dark and we do not have lights on our bikes. We headed home thinking that maybe we could get some chicken or fish at Playa La Lancheras (Fisherman’s Beach). They were closing up as well so it was back to the casa for beans and tortillas.
Isla Files 1.13
Lazy Sunday so we have decided to ride down to Na Balaam and check out the North Beach scene. The ride into town is easy and we don’t even get confused on the one way streets. North Beach is incredible. Where there once was a huge expanse of white sand now there is a small spit with handmade erosion jetties interspersed at the property lines. David at Na Balaam says that the beach had receded all the way up to the property line in November but has slowly returned “poco a poco.” We were saddened to see a new condominium project going in beside the Hotel Secreto. 69 condos really close to the water line, too. You just know they will not survive a hurricane like Keith 2 years ago. At one time we thought that this island was committed to low impact growth but that no longer seems to be the case. I think that the Mexican government pumped a lot of money into the whole Yucatan after Keith but perhaps with the caveat of reduced environmental standards.
The water off North Beach is still an incredible aquamarine and you can now walk out more than 200 yards and not be in water over your head. We spied coronet fish and bone fish in the shallows. About 20 boats, from lanchas to big yachts, were anchored and people were coming ashore to eat at the restaurants on the beach. English is definitely in the minority. Mostly Spanish, Dutch, and French spoken here.
We stopped by the chicken man “Chuc Khan Chen” on our way home hoping to score some chicken for dinner. He was out but we got “castillo.” I am not sure what that is and didn’t eat much of it. Steve said it was delicious. I think it may have been goat or mutton. It didn’t smell or taste like lamb but you never know. One time when I was here years ago I thought I was eating bat. Turns out it was some sort of deer but I always like to check. We got this whole sack of food for 35 pesos: meat, half an onion, some cole slaw (passed), cheese (didn’t eat that either), mole, and salsa.
We continue to look for the bakery. I think it may be closer to town but we will find it tomorrow. I am definitely going to make bread though.
Nellie and Veronica do not open the store on Sunday. I don’t know where they were all day but they just got back and trooped through the patio. “Hola! Hola!” They are always laughing and friendly.
Friday, January 11, 2008
isla files: days 1, 2, and 3
January 9, 2008
Isla Files, Day 1:
It’s 5:15 AM and Sonata the Bosnian cab driver is waiting in the drive way. Her Prius is packed with our beongings, 4 suitcases full of the things we think we will need for 11 weeks in Mexico. Leaving Boise is always such a rush. Is this turned on? That off? Have we stopped this or started that? No matter. Our plane leaves in 90 minutes and we will have to be on it. Thank goodness we have such great back-up. Diana will be coming in tomorrow, my parents and the girls will be stopping by, and the neighbors are instructed to be on the look-out!
It’s cold and dark. The snow crunches underfoot as we make our way carefully to the car. We’re off.
Funny how it all just slips away the minute you step outside the airport in Cancun. The air is soft, the light bright. Our shuttle driver is waiting, a little apart from the other drivers. At first we didn’t see him and there was that tingle of panic. “No problem, senora!” We loaded into a van and waited for other patrons. I am concerned about the van and taxi drivers’ habit of idling at the curb. God forbid that any gringo should get too hot or start to sweat!! Finally, the last 2 people are aboard and we are off.
We have opted for the $9.00 each ride to Puerto Juarez as opposed to the more expensive private car. This takes us through the hotel zone along the coast of Cancun. It looks pretty prosperous here. Lot’s of franchises and big hotels. I notice that there seems to be less trash than when we were here 2 years ago. Our cab-partners include a chicken farmer from Missouri. He entertains us with his tale of 19 million chickens,, what to do with the chicken manure, and how to extract calcium from that many chicken eggs! Who knew?? Finally we are alone in the van with the driver and on our way to Puerto Juarez. No high rises here but still the mark of NAFTA. Our driver tries to drop us at “UltraMar” ferry dock but we hold out and are soon at the old puerto. This is coming home: the smell of the ocean and the sound of the waves mixed with faint notes of Spanish music. The ferry is just pulling away from the dock and so we wait.
No problems securing a cab when we reach the island. It would have been nice to stay at Nabalam, if only so that we could have walked through town with our luggage piled on a tricycle cab.
It only takes about 5 minutes to get from the dock to our condominium at La Loma Bonita. Jose Luis was waiting for us and showed us to what will be home for the next 11 weeks. We are in Cuarto 1 on the ground floor. It is very basic and I think Steve was a little disappointed. We have been talking about how we want to embrace a minimalist lifestyle though and this will be fine. We have 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a living room/dining room/ kitchen combo, and a great balcony with beautiful views to the south and west. We can see Cancun, Puerto Juarez, and Punta Sam. I am so glad that we brought the binoculars!
We took stock of our surroundings, unpacked, and discussed going into town. Casa O’s is just 300 meters up the road though so we opted for a more expensive dinner there. It is an amazing restaurant complex built on the edge of the sea. The restaurant kitchen and main seating area are on one circular level and then there area additional terraces down to the beach. We had a great table facing the chanel. The lights of Cancun make an interesting sky line and then midway through dinner a boat to the north treated us to fireworks. Welcome to paradise!
Isla Files, Day 2:
Waking to a soft Carribean breeze and barking gekkos. Where are we? Oh yes, I remember now! We have coffee on the balcony and decide to wander into town to round up some provisions. Our condo is pretty sparsely furnished. For example: we have a gas stove but no grates in the oven. We have a good-sized refrigerator but no food. A 20 liter jug of bottle water but no pitcher.
We make a list and then go habla with Jose Luis. We mention that we would like to get some bikes to ride back and forth into town. He initially suggests Costco or Sam’s Club in Cancun but then as if by magic says “I have some bikes. Maybe we can work something out” and produces 2 bikes that look like the will do the trick. He is a magician! He is going to put some air in the tires and get them cleaned up so that we can take possession of them tomorrow.
I am looking forward to the mobility bikes will give us. We are about 4 miles south of town and the bus stop is about a mile from here. We wandered down there to wait this morning but no bus came. After about 40 minutes a taxi came by and offered us a ride to town for 20 pesos. The taxi driver said the bus is not reliable and doesn’t really have a firm schedule.
The taxi drops us across from the ferry dock and we walk up through “el centro” to the Manana Café. They have fantastic iced coffee and vegetarian sandwiches. This café is just down the street from the local youth hostel and is filled with traveling young people. I love sitting there, watching the street, and listening to the many different languages. We watched a Gringo from the states hit on 2 Sabras from Israel and listened to some French girls giggling over coffee. The streets here are very brightly colored. It is nothing to see a lavender wall bisected by a bright orange door and windows trimmed in turquoise.
After lunch we went to the Mercado, a large open structure housing many small shops. We picked up limes, bananas, melons, and tortillas then walked down to a more formal market for wine, rice, cleaning supplies, and beer. I finally got to buy an island broom but they didn’t have any dustpans, butter, or tea. Funny things to be out of but it didn’t seem to rattle anyone.
They municipality has completely redone the square across from the church and made it more pedestrian friendly. We were sorry to see that they have razed the gazebo and replaced it with a fountain. The fountain was not operating and I am afraid that it may be a high maintenance attraction! Also, it seems odd to have a fountain when you can here the crashing of the waves on the West side of the island. I look forward to Mardi Gras and the activities in the square.
We finished our shopping at the small store across the square. We were able to get tea, butter, tonic water, a dustpan, and some matches. We bought votive candles for our balcony but didn’t have anything to light them with. Steve also bought some tapers. He is excited to use the wine bottle as a candle holder. “Just like in college!” he says.
We now had about 50 pounds of stuff and decided it would be best to take a taxi back to the casa. We really don’t want to take taxis because the bus has more local color and as Jose Luis points out, is a good way to get to know the local people. I couldn’t quite see lugging all that stuff the mile back from the bus stop though. Our cab driver took us through town, past PocNa. I was afraid he had misunderstood our destination but he just wanted to pick up his wife and 15-month-old son, Jonathan, from the Women’s and Children’s Clinic. Jonathan was a complete cutie with huge brown eyes, thick lashes, and chubby little arms and fingers. He got great pleasure out of throwing his shirt and his socks at his father as we buzzed down the road. Oops! There goes his sock out the window! Dad was just going to drive on but we convinced him to go back and pick up the little sock lying in the middle of the road.
Isla Files, Day 1:
It’s 5:15 AM and Sonata the Bosnian cab driver is waiting in the drive way. Her Prius is packed with our beongings, 4 suitcases full of the things we think we will need for 11 weeks in Mexico. Leaving Boise is always such a rush. Is this turned on? That off? Have we stopped this or started that? No matter. Our plane leaves in 90 minutes and we will have to be on it. Thank goodness we have such great back-up. Diana will be coming in tomorrow, my parents and the girls will be stopping by, and the neighbors are instructed to be on the look-out!
It’s cold and dark. The snow crunches underfoot as we make our way carefully to the car. We’re off.
Funny how it all just slips away the minute you step outside the airport in Cancun. The air is soft, the light bright. Our shuttle driver is waiting, a little apart from the other drivers. At first we didn’t see him and there was that tingle of panic. “No problem, senora!” We loaded into a van and waited for other patrons. I am concerned about the van and taxi drivers’ habit of idling at the curb. God forbid that any gringo should get too hot or start to sweat!! Finally, the last 2 people are aboard and we are off.
We have opted for the $9.00 each ride to Puerto Juarez as opposed to the more expensive private car. This takes us through the hotel zone along the coast of Cancun. It looks pretty prosperous here. Lot’s of franchises and big hotels. I notice that there seems to be less trash than when we were here 2 years ago. Our cab-partners include a chicken farmer from Missouri. He entertains us with his tale of 19 million chickens,, what to do with the chicken manure, and how to extract calcium from that many chicken eggs! Who knew?? Finally we are alone in the van with the driver and on our way to Puerto Juarez. No high rises here but still the mark of NAFTA. Our driver tries to drop us at “UltraMar” ferry dock but we hold out and are soon at the old puerto. This is coming home: the smell of the ocean and the sound of the waves mixed with faint notes of Spanish music. The ferry is just pulling away from the dock and so we wait.
No problems securing a cab when we reach the island. It would have been nice to stay at Nabalam, if only so that we could have walked through town with our luggage piled on a tricycle cab.
It only takes about 5 minutes to get from the dock to our condominium at La Loma Bonita. Jose Luis was waiting for us and showed us to what will be home for the next 11 weeks. We are in Cuarto 1 on the ground floor. It is very basic and I think Steve was a little disappointed. We have been talking about how we want to embrace a minimalist lifestyle though and this will be fine. We have 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a living room/dining room/ kitchen combo, and a great balcony with beautiful views to the south and west. We can see Cancun, Puerto Juarez, and Punta Sam. I am so glad that we brought the binoculars!
We took stock of our surroundings, unpacked, and discussed going into town. Casa O’s is just 300 meters up the road though so we opted for a more expensive dinner there. It is an amazing restaurant complex built on the edge of the sea. The restaurant kitchen and main seating area are on one circular level and then there area additional terraces down to the beach. We had a great table facing the chanel. The lights of Cancun make an interesting sky line and then midway through dinner a boat to the north treated us to fireworks. Welcome to paradise!
Isla Files, Day 2:
Waking to a soft Carribean breeze and barking gekkos. Where are we? Oh yes, I remember now! We have coffee on the balcony and decide to wander into town to round up some provisions. Our condo is pretty sparsely furnished. For example: we have a gas stove but no grates in the oven. We have a good-sized refrigerator but no food. A 20 liter jug of bottle water but no pitcher.
We make a list and then go habla with Jose Luis. We mention that we would like to get some bikes to ride back and forth into town. He initially suggests Costco or Sam’s Club in Cancun but then as if by magic says “I have some bikes. Maybe we can work something out” and produces 2 bikes that look like the will do the trick. He is a magician! He is going to put some air in the tires and get them cleaned up so that we can take possession of them tomorrow.
I am looking forward to the mobility bikes will give us. We are about 4 miles south of town and the bus stop is about a mile from here. We wandered down there to wait this morning but no bus came. After about 40 minutes a taxi came by and offered us a ride to town for 20 pesos. The taxi driver said the bus is not reliable and doesn’t really have a firm schedule.
The taxi drops us across from the ferry dock and we walk up through “el centro” to the Manana Café. They have fantastic iced coffee and vegetarian sandwiches. This café is just down the street from the local youth hostel and is filled with traveling young people. I love sitting there, watching the street, and listening to the many different languages. We watched a Gringo from the states hit on 2 Sabras from Israel and listened to some French girls giggling over coffee. The streets here are very brightly colored. It is nothing to see a lavender wall bisected by a bright orange door and windows trimmed in turquoise.
After lunch we went to the Mercado, a large open structure housing many small shops. We picked up limes, bananas, melons, and tortillas then walked down to a more formal market for wine, rice, cleaning supplies, and beer. I finally got to buy an island broom but they didn’t have any dustpans, butter, or tea. Funny things to be out of but it didn’t seem to rattle anyone.
They municipality has completely redone the square across from the church and made it more pedestrian friendly. We were sorry to see that they have razed the gazebo and replaced it with a fountain. The fountain was not operating and I am afraid that it may be a high maintenance attraction! Also, it seems odd to have a fountain when you can here the crashing of the waves on the West side of the island. I look forward to Mardi Gras and the activities in the square.
We finished our shopping at the small store across the square. We were able to get tea, butter, tonic water, a dustpan, and some matches. We bought votive candles for our balcony but didn’t have anything to light them with. Steve also bought some tapers. He is excited to use the wine bottle as a candle holder. “Just like in college!” he says.
We now had about 50 pounds of stuff and decided it would be best to take a taxi back to the casa. We really don’t want to take taxis because the bus has more local color and as Jose Luis points out, is a good way to get to know the local people. I couldn’t quite see lugging all that stuff the mile back from the bus stop though. Our cab driver took us through town, past PocNa. I was afraid he had misunderstood our destination but he just wanted to pick up his wife and 15-month-old son, Jonathan, from the Women’s and Children’s Clinic. Jonathan was a complete cutie with huge brown eyes, thick lashes, and chubby little arms and fingers. He got great pleasure out of throwing his shirt and his socks at his father as we buzzed down the road. Oops! There goes his sock out the window! Dad was just going to drive on but we convinced him to go back and pick up the little sock lying in the middle of the road.
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